Kolkata--City of Joy

Howrah Station

                              " Kolkata is always dying but it never dies"

 Kolkata is a city where human values are not measured by material wealth but by the warmth, hospitality, cultural and intellectual abilities extended by ”bhadraloks” (gentlemen} It is chaotic, crowded, colourful,crazy and yet there is an orderliness in this madness. If you come once you will promise you’ll never come back again but once you are back home you will yearn to return to the city which stands by the river Hooghly, where the average nominal per capita income is $2000 per year, where you can have lunch for $1 and splash $200 dollars for dinner at a flashy 5 star hotel 

Most things don’t change in Kolkata. Therefore, the obsolete, loss-making trams still run on tracks   built by the British. Its ride through history but you can’t depend on them to reach an appointment, slow and sluggish that they are. The man-drawn rickshaws have stood the test of time no matter how cruel it looks.  Thousands would be thrown into the den of unemployment if they were to be withdrawn. The omnipresent yellow Ambassador-taxis are indispensable .Hindustan Motors factory but the Ambassador lives on in the metropolis. They are always at your beck and call through hail or storm, though some drivers may refuse to turn the metre on or may ask you for Rs10 extra.  “Nahoums” bakery in New Market is still selling its delicious fruit cakes from the same wooded cases that the Jewish owners had set up decades ago. Nobody wants anything to change. That’s the attraction of the place.

                                                     

Kolkata Tram

The British when they reached Kolkata brought not only the Queen’s language but also their baroque and neo-classical architecture, grand and over-powering. The National Library, Writer’s building ,the Grand Hotel, the Museum   remain very British in appearance  It is worth doing a architecture tour of the city which perhaps will take you more than a day.

 The iconic Victoria Memorial which stands imposingly in the centre of the city serves as a tourist attraction, a jogger’s park and picnic spot. However don’t go to any of the touristy places on holidays. It’s a melee.

                                             

Victoria Memorial

Each attraction in Kolkata is wrapped in a story. The old Howrah bridge and the new Vidyasagar Setu represents two eras, two Indias both different yet compatible.  I like the Howrah railway station with its 23 platforms and the big clock( it's not working now) which was built in 1926 by Gent’s of London serving as a prominent meeting point for many.

The Bengali cuisine excites the palate like no other. River or sea fish is an integral part of the menu. The “Rasgolla “and sweet curd is the finale to a hearty meal. Some note-worthy restaurants are Oh Kolkata (10/3Elgin Road) Kasturi (Ballygunge) and Bhojohori Manna (Gariahat)

 Upmarket Park Street hosts a number of good restaurants and a few offer music in the evenings. Go to “Flury’s “for an English breakfast or afternoon tea, “Cha Bar “at Oxford Book Store for a mid-morning cuppa to taste the original Darjeeling or Assam tea while browsing through a book. Dinner could be at “Mocambo “Bar-B-Q” or “Peter Cat”.  Originally the street was through a deer park, hence its name. Officially, it is known as Mother Theresa Sarani.

Plate of Rasgullas

 Kolkata clubs are little islands of British culture. Every member holds very dearly to the customs, mores and etiquette and is more British than the British themselves. The Tollygunge club is the only country club in India more than 220 years old. The Bengal club is famous for its Christmas lunch. Should you get an invite to any of them, don’t miss out. 

Kolkata has provided a home for one and all. Parses, Greeks, Armenians, Jews, Chinese and the English have made it their home over the years, each community contributing to its growth. Around 2000 Chinese have their own China Town where Chinese festivals are celebrated. Mother Theresa made it her own and brought joy to many. A visit to her home will complete your trip.  We decided to make it by foot. With GPS data connection poor and human GPS most unreliable (we asked two policemen, three gentlemen, and two shop-keepers for directions) we walked a maze of streets covering 4.9 kms to reach the home ....serene and peaceful.....an island of bliss in this noisy city....it was worth it !!!!But what surprised me was that 7 people didn’t know where it was located....People’s memories are very short unfortunately. Besides the walk was not easy .The sidewalks have been converted to showrooms for tyers and garments leaving us to the mercy of cars that zoomed by.

My love-hate relationship with the city has brought me back an umpteenth number of times and every time I have something new to write home about. 

At Mother's Home

Cherrapunjee.....the rainiest spot on planet Earth

" Do not be angry with the rain; it simply does not know how to fall upwards." V. Nobokov

 With an average annual rainfall of 449.6 inches (yes, you have read it correct) it is the wettest spot on Earth. The drive from Shillong to Cherrapunjee ( also known as Sohra) is breath-takingly beautiful with the fog embracing you and droplets of water drawing out patterns. Dont forget an umbrella which goes without saying . Or better still a raincoat because your umbrella may be swiped away by the strong wind. Yet, during the dry season there is a shortage of water which brings up pertinent questions of water-harvesting. The area is inhabited by the Khasi tribe and they are  a matrilineal society.  If you are an adventurous foodie try Khasi food . Jadoh(mixture of rice and pork)Ja Stem(rice cooked with turmeric powder and sesame)Tungrymbai (fermented soya beans and spices)For this dish dont go by the smell but the taste!Dohneiiong (smoked pork with black sesame seeds) is delicious and comes very close to BBQ pork.
There are many places one could stay but I would weave my way to Jiva Resort for a holistic experience.

Jiva resort

Nature is at its best in this region. Unspoilt and prestine. It's enough to watch the rain come down or listen to the pitter-patter on the tin roofs. Most houses have slanting roofs for the water to drain off. Waterfalls ,big and small, are well fed by the monsoon rains and the springs that abound. Its a lovely place in the amazing state of Meghalaya, North-east India......remote and beautiful!!!

waterfalls

Chocolate Ring Cake with ice-cream and watermelon

"All the world's a birthday cake, so take a piece but not too much." George Harrison.

My grand-daughter, Molly, loves to play Housie –house in her fairly large toy kitchen. She cooks up muffins, sunny –side up eggs, steak and her favourite peanut butter sandwiches with lettuce.  To be a part of her world, I bought a cake mould in the shape of a ring and involved her in the entire process. What fun we both had! The child in me got the upper hand and we became messy together. She picked up culinary terms which would baffle many of her friends I’m sure. But the end product was a delight!!  

So here we go:

Ingredients

100 grams sugar                                                      to decorate: 

100 grams flour                                                       1 brick Ice-cream

100 grams butter                                                      1 cup watermelon balls

4 eggs                                                                       1/3 cup cooking chocolate

30 grams cocoa powder                                           ½ cup cream

1 level tsp. baking powder

Pinch of soda-bicarbonate

Pinch of salt

A few drops of Vanilla essence

Method

1.Grease an 8”ring- cake tin. Sieve the flour, cocoa powder, salt, baking powder and soda bi-carbonate together twice.

2.Beat the sugar and butter. Add the egg yolks and beat into the butter mixture.  Keep it aside.

3.Beat the egg whites till fluffy.  Fold the egg whites into the sugar-butter mixture till smooth.

4.Fold in the flour with the rest of the ingredients raising the ladle high to let in air.

5.Stir in the vanilla essence.

6.Pour into the greased tin and bake for 30 minutes in a pre-heated oven of 180 degrees.

7.Remove and let it cool.

Decorations:

1.Melt the chocolate in a double boiler. Add cream. Stir till smooth and shiny. (Chocolate ganache) 

2.Pour over cake evenly.

3.Fill the centre of the ring with ice-cream and melon balls.Sprinkle coloured sugar balls all around       to give the final touch.

4. Serves 6 to 8 people.


Note: I love traveling but I enjoy making desserts too.

Russia : land of the onion -domed churches

     "The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page." St. Augustine

Russia has a distinct character, very original and varied. You have to see it to believe. It is neither European nor Asian. It is Russian. European Russia makes it the biggest country in Europe and the Asian part makes it the largest in Asia. The nation is mysteriously enormous, covering almost 11%of the land mass with 11 time zones, 25 official languages and more than 110 unofficial ones.

We decided to fly into Sheremetyevo last March with apprehensions of what to expect of a country which Churchill described as a “riddle wrapped in a mystery inside an enigma”. We were taken in for a surprise at what we found –the people, the terrain and cuisine were fascinating .We flew Aeroflot where the crew was polite, professional and pretty. It’s a great airline for the price you pay.

March is a good month to visit Moscow. Not very cold, no rains either and fewer ant-like tourist groups. Consequently queues are shorter at the visitor’s counters, buses are less crowded but metros are not. You might miss out on the street food because the food stalls were few and far between. Trees are bare but beautiful and flowers are just about coming out of their hibernation.   

Bare and beautiful

The gentleman from Angel Taxi Agency was on the spot at the dot of time as we came out of the airport foyer. Most amiable, we handed him the address of our hotel neatly written in Russia and he very politely ushered us into the car. It was a strange situation where he understood English but couldn’t speak and we could read the Russian script, Cyrillic, but couldn’t speak except for a smattering of phrases with a strange accent which no Russian could understand. The day was cloudy and a little dreary but, Yuri,   our chauffer, made it the most delightful trip by pointing out landmarks and cracking jokes which he only understood but we laughed along. The grandeur of the baroque buildings left by the Tsarist regimes stood side by side with the Soviet-era blocks, interspersed by malls and a few high-rise buildings. Traffic, like every capital in the world was nothing to write about and you do notice a few jumping lines and taking a turn when you shouldn’t. If you want to see sky-scrappers and all the modern trappings that go with them, go to New Moscow.

Kremlin

Yuri drove us into Nastasyinsky Perulok Street in Tverskoy to our hotel Pushkin. The proximity of the hotel to three metro stations, Trevaskaya, Chekovskaya and Pushkinskaya made it very convenient to for us to reach all corners of Moscow. The Red square and the Kremlin were within walking distance. We were well received by two pretty girls who spoke English and didn’t waste time with inane niceties. Our room was small but convenient, clean and modern. Hot water and ice was available just across the room. The dining space was artistically done up, keeping the writer Pushkin, in mind. The complimentary breakfast was well laid out. The minus point of the hotel was the shower –cubicle which was tiny and would well make it difficult for a fat man to manoeuvre. But would I stay here again? Definitely.

Chicken Kiev at Hotel Pushkin

Armed with a few Russian phrases like”Da”,”Nyet” “Spa-see-ba” we began our march into the land of Lenin, Stalin and Putin . Russians have been storied and parodied as unsmiling, stern-lipped vodka-drinkers but they turned out to be friendly and helpful. Nothing appeared intimidating; there was no cold-sweat seeing the Lubyanka building, HQ of the erstwhile KGB now known as FSB. There are more channels on TV than the propaganda channel. You are not under surveillance as we were made to believe. The only time I did feel uneasy was when burly Russians were trying to sell us tickets outside the Bolshoi Theatre Moscow, at an astronomical price. With a burgeoning middle-class with growing purchasing and a new generation of ambitious youngsters who are keen to learn, Russia has come out of the Cold.  And this I’m talking about is urban Russia (St, Petersburg and Moscow) not the rural areas. Perhaps it would be different.

 More of Russia in my next blog. Yes , I could go on ……

St.Petersburg ....my travelling companion ,Bee

"If you don't know how great this country is, I know someone who does; Russia."Robert Frost


Note: We do not go through any travel agent . All bookings are through the net.......thats the marvel of the Virtual world........

Little Rann of Kutch

Asiatic Wild Ass at the Little Rann 

The Rann is quiet “yet through the silence, something throbs and gleams.”

The best way to reach the Little Rann of Kutch is to fly down to Ahmedabad 's SVP airport and then take a vehicle to your destination. Getting behind the wheels , Bee my travelling partner  took National Highway (NH) 947 and GJ SH 18 from Ahmadabad to Zainabad, a distance of 2hours 20minutes to reach Zainabad Camp run by Desert Coursers. You may book a chauffer -driven taxi  or go for myles-self-driven cars. The Little Rann of Kutch is at the periphery of the great salty-swamp and marks the beginning of the greater Rann. A brackish marshland with a bleak landscape it offers a bio-diversity which is unique to this world . The dry cracked earth and the salt desert makes this region distinctive and inimatable. 

A Kooba..... to spend the night

The resort run by Desert Coursers was started by the descendants of Nawab Zain khan and it is still managed by Dhanraj Mallick ,the son of the present Nawab. A very colourful person, who has seen the world, Mr Mallick can fill you up on all the things that you might want to know. The family is originally from Multan and came to Gujarat before the Mughals. The campus is dotted with “Koobas”, the eco-friendly cottages that gives the area a rural touch. Each Kooba has a bed-room, a dressing area provided with modern amenities and an attached bath-room, a shower and air-conditioning. The food is garden fresh, served hot, offering the local cuisine. In the evening the warm camp-fire and the starry sky above completes your holiday.

a tribal girl in a colourful applique skirt

Tucked into a corner of the country (India), the Little Rann inter-mingles diverse cultures and colours that have beckoned travellers for centuries. There are a number of nomadic and settled tribes in this part of India like the Rabaris, Kolis, Bajanias, Siddis (originally from Abyssinia) whose ethnic ways has added interesting hue to the otherwise austere yet beautiful terrain. You may be tempted to buy their ostentatious jewellery and colourful scarves. The Halari tribe, in particular is known for their appliqué work.

Nilgais

Flamingos

The wildlife tours on camels and jeeps will take you through one of the largest sanctuaries in India measuring 4950sq, km. The prize-winning animal is the Asiatic Wild Ass which is found nowhere else in the world. Chestnut brown in colour with white under-parts it is graceful and as strong as the horse. You may be lucky to see herds of them. The Nilgai, desert fox and a host of birds can be spotted. If you are lucky you will spot the chinkara gazelle (we didn’t). The water bodies around the Rann provide breeding ground and launch pads for migratory birds. Flamingos arrive in hundreds and are a sight to behold. Larks, land grouse, the common stork, nightjars and eagles are other birds that we spotted.

Sunset at Little Rann

The sunset and sunrise on the Rann is a photographer’s delight. With the wind on your face, the cracked earth below you and salt-pans in the distant horizon, there is a romance in the air which is inescapable and cloying. Day trips to the Sun Temple in Modhera and sari –shopping to Patan are to be included.

 A visit to the salt pans where salt is crystallized, gathered and despatched is a learning experience. The challenges and vicissitudes that the workers face make you realise how fortunate you are. The designated tribes  have been doing this work for generations. Their houses are sparse and clean .The people are  strong and optimistic.

In front of a salt mound

Tips: Take the afternoon trip to see the animals. Early morning safaris are to spot the birds. Cover yourself up because the wind can get strong at sun-set. Remember it’s an open land. Have shades and a hat with fasterners or the wind will sweep it away.  The water bottle is essential and of course a good pair of walking shoes .A powerful camera to capture the birds and the beasts for the wild-life buff.     

safari jeep, cracked earth and scattered salt  

"Short travel can be just as impactful and meaningful as long term travel"

GRANADA-----Spain

.

GRANADA-----SPAIN

View of Granada

“How lazily the sun goes down in Granada, it hides beneath the water, it conceals in the Alhambra.”(Ernest Hemingway.)

GRANADA ,Spain.

“The Last sigh of the Moors” by Lauryn Christopher, touched my not-too-strong heart with an intense poignancy that made me want to visit Granada, in the province of Andalusia. It was the last bastion of the Moorish kings .The Moors ruled southern Spain for 700years before Boabdil, the last king, handed over the key of Granada to King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella thus completing the Christian” Reconquista” of the Iberian Peninsula.

 It was the first time I had heard about the magnificent Alhambra which led me to read further about that era. “Tales of Alhambra” by Irving Washington, for instance, is a brilliant exposition of that period. While I garnered information ,my travelling companion ,Bee, worked on the challenging logistics of reaching distant Granada from  North-east India in the most comfortable and affordable manner.

Many essentials have to be factorized before making a trip. The weather for instance would determine the clothes you pack into your 24”suitcase without it gaping at the seams when it rolls out on the arrival assembly line.  Granada was a challenge. Although, sunny Spain is warm, Granada situated at the foot of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, which are almost always snow-clad, is cold or cool in March, necessitating a light jacket, a cap and sturdy shoes. Good walking shoes are a must. Check the weather chart to determine whether you need an umbrella.

                                

pictures of Olive groves taken from the train 

                         

How did we reach Granada?

So we set off to “discover the treasure of the Moors “and absorb the Andalusian sunshine.

In Madrid, we boarded the Tourist compartment of the train operated by RENFE, Spain’s largest state-owned rail network. The cap on luggage was 20kgs each, making it comfortable for all passengers. Helpful signage took us to the right platform and the right coach.

The journey takes you through a varied landscape of altitude, slopes and plains. At times you feel the train chugging upwards and at other times it’s rattling down at a fairy’s speed. The autonomous province of Andalusia, where Granada is located, is distinctive in its character and identity, influenced historically by the Romans, Carthaginians, Byzantine, the Christian rulers and particularly by the Moors.

 The plains would be almost stark had it not been for the beautiful olive trees covering acres and acres of land. Memories of Van Gogh’s series of “The Olive Trees,” flashed through my mind. Then you see the quiet mountains looming in the distance. In fact it is the most mountainous region of Spain protecting a culture which is unique by itself. Many features which we consider to be Spanish, for example the Flamenco dance, are distinctively Andalusian .At times the music has a Middle-eastern ring.

As the train rumbled into the station, the unfamiliar engulfed us as we entered unknown land without a guide or agent depending solely on the internet and the GPS.

Court of the Lions, Alhambra 

   Where did we stay?

It took us a long time to decide where to stay. We had initially decided on one of the hotels in the Albaycin area, being a World Heritage site with a distinctive Moorish influence. The smell of hookah and incense gives it an un-Spanish ambience. But after reading reviews in various travel forums about muggings and brigands, which we later realised were absolutely untrue, decided on a hotel with a very exhilarating name “Granada Five Senses Rooms and Suites.”Truly our senses were pampered by the excellent staff, cleanliness, cuisine and location on the Central Gran via Avenue. 

The Albaycin area and Granada in general are not remotely crime-infested as Bangkok, New Delhi or London. Necessary precautions should always be taken where-ever you travel. Avoid the narrow thoroughfares especially in the afternoon (when the whole of Spain is on “Siesta”) or after dark.  Besides, the little alleys are a little confusing and there is every chance you may lose your way. Unlike Venice, the signage is sparse. The roads in Albaycin are narrow ,cobbled, often crowded with tourists: there is a gradient which sometimes makes it difficult for the elderly or little children or even taxis to manoeuvre. So if you have a large suitcase to haul with children in tow, take a hotel in the lower reaches. But it is a must-see area.....a little off-beat, bohemian and unconventional reminding us of the “hippy decade “of our youth. Cafes and restaurants are open till late in most parts of Granada. In fact we could hear laughter and merry chatter till 2am and this is very common in Spain. A kid being awake till late and entering bars is not unusual. 

Granada is inter-laced with romantic tales and fantasy. Many old citizens still believe there is immense wealth hidden in some of the abandoned forts left by the Moors. Episodes of knights in armour and beautiful princess abound.  Not knowing the language was to our disadvantage, missing out on many stories from the friendly folk.

Alleys in the Albaycin area

                           

What did we see?

The citadel and palace of Alhambra is the biggest attraction in the city. Belonging to the Nashrid period, its spectacular architecture, waterways and gardens have attracted visitors from all over the world. Book your tickets on-line and reach early to avoid the queues. Remember daily footfalls are limited and afternoons can get hot.  Generalife is the pleasure palace and immaculate garden where time can be well-spent.

We walked down from Alhambra to Plaza Neuva. You just need a good pair of walking shoes to do this route. The square is of medium size. On a sunny day the area fills with students, tourists and entertainers. There are a number of cafes and souvenir shops, often tourist –traps, but there’s no harm picking up one or two curios to add to your memorabilia. You may see antique stuff like an old copper bowl which may have been common in the days of Don Quixote!!!

There are countless museums, statutes and museums to explore. You can’t leave without visiting the Cathedral .  The “hamam”is a must-see. So are the flamenco dances at the caves in the Sacromento area. Tickets to these shows include transportation, dinner/drinks (optional) and a tour of the neighbourhood which took us to Mirador de San Nicolas from where we got a spectacular view of Alhambra at night.

The Carrero del Darro is just a street along the river Darro and it is difficult to rate a street . But having read reviews we decided to give it “dekho”which was worth the walk. Located on the left bank of the river ,it is narrow with ancient bridges , old re-notated bath-houses at the end of which there is a square abounding with activities.

A trek into the country-side or into the Sierra Nevada mountains which form the distant boundary of Granada can be included if you have time in hand

Flamenco dancer

  What did we eat?

The cuisine is as varied as Spain’s provinces, each region having its own cuisine. “Paella” the national dish, actually belongs to the area of Valencia.  Granada oranges and other citrus fruits are aplenty. Gazpacho (a soup) La Tortilla de Sacromento (stuffed omelette), Chicharron (pork dish), Pionomo (sweet  pastry similar to Swiss Roll) and a variety of tapas featuring olives, ham, and cheese satiated our hunger. Mention must be made of “El Olivio” restaurant, 30 minutes from downtown where for 39dollars + you get a treat of a set menu of 7 courses. The chef takes time off to explain each dish and guides you through different wines and olive oils. The place is of a different calibre and unique in style and decor.

Paella

                                

Granada is a fusion of the east and the west. The place exudes a kind of romance and encourages one to mingle with one and all.

Let me narrate an incident to illustrate the  friendly and helpful character of its citizens.  It so happened that I banged my head against a lamp in the hotel which left a painful lump. Next day I went to the nearest Pharmacy looking for an ointment armed with the Google translator not having faith in my scanty, accented Spanish.  I realised that the person behind the counter ,with a brimming smile,  understood me all right, but could not communicate what he wanted to say since he did not know how to use the translator. At that moment a young gentleman  who turned out to be a journalist visiting his parents in Granada but based in Hongkong, entered into the scene. He spoke fluent Spanish, English and French and had visited Mumbai and ( Oh my God!!) even knew where my home-town was, (Golaghat) thanks to the famous Kaziranga national Park. He acted as the mediator and got me the requisite medicines.  Like a true knight of yore, he walked me down to the hotel after exchanging e-mail adds.

To end......"Once you have traveled , the voyage never ends......."

The Alhambra from Mirador de San Nicholas 

                       

                    

     

                                 

                     
                 

BALI----Island of the Gods

“The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes."          (M.Proust)

There is much more to Bali than the sun, surf, and sand. It is an offering from God to Mankind. For one, there is culture everywhere. Intricately carved Temples, elaborate dances and songs, gorgeous paintings, art-craft and the omnipresent daily offerings (canang sari) in front of every establishment.  Geographical attractions abound from craters to calderas, bays to spits to headlands. For relaxation,,  meditation and yoga will sweep your mind away from the daily humdrum. Indulge yourself in the reasonably –priced spas or opt for the five-star treatment.Golfing, cycling,scuba diving for the sporty folks. Keep the beach parties and the champagne toasts for the sunset. That is a different scene ...live music , dancing , good food , sitting on bean-bags as the ocean washes your feet.....Yes , Bali is a never-ending party , a celebration  where you get value for your money.

View from Restaurant Ku de ta

 How did we reach Bali?

Budget travellers that we are, we took the no-frills Air Asia flight to Bali via Kuala Lumpur, indulging ourselves with a flexi-ticket which allowed us to book our baggage and taste their not-so-tasty food. My travelling companion,the ever-thirsty Bee, took a while to locate a smoking-room (incorrigible he!) and a beer bar at the KL airport (low cost terminal) since they are not as visible as in other airports. Besides beer-drinking is not a budget-activity in Malaysia as the excise tax is one of the highest compared to neighbouring Asian countries. So be prepared all ye guys who need a beer to begin your vacation or solve all problems!!  

Ngurah Rai International airport, named after a Balinese war hero who died fighting the Dutch, is beautifully located on the narrowest point on the south coast of Bali. With 6.5 million passengers descending annually it was necessary to extend the runway westward towards the sea, reclaiming land, making the sight from above as beautiful as a childhood dream. At Denpesar airport (Bali) the easiest option is to take a pre-paid taxi but, surprisingly, may end up paying more than to a taxi driver waiting outside waving frantically to catch your attention. But a pre-paid cab saves time and energy, after a long flight. Besides, a few extra pennies will not break your bank.

Don’t en-cash much of your foreign exchange at the airport. Downtown Bali offer attractive rates.   Count your Indonesian rupaiya in front of the trader and never, NEVER give it back for a re-count for you may end up 20k/30k IR poorer.  They are very deft with their fingers.  

Tip: Blue-bird taxis are not allowed into the airport but you will find them outside. To go around the city make use of their services. Their meters run like Swiss clocks and the chauffeurs are informative. Avoid the others.

The Kura Kura bus service is another easy and comfortable way to go around Bali. But you must have a schedule in your hand to be aware of the timings and stoppages. This is available at any tourist information center.Passes are available for 1,3,5or7 days.

Nature's gift

Where did we stay

“Money, money people no live here,” pronounced the chatty driver almost with pity, as he bought the vehicle to a halt in front of Vera home stay, Seminyak. An old, traditional Balinese home converted into a guest house with eight rooms, it is almost always occupied. Credit goes to the elegant and graceful sarong-clad Mama Ary, a one –woman army, who welcomed us with Balinese rice cakes filled with sweet coconut, wrapped in a banana leaf and shaped like an Indian “samosa”. The rooms were clean with basic essentials....Air-conditioned, hot-water, electric kettle, fridge, toiletries and a platter of fruits. If you are a TV buff you will be disappointed.  She doesn’t provide one. There was a veranda in front of every room which made the smoker happy.  It was an open house and the kitchen could be used as and when necessary. But who wants to spend time in the kitchen on a short holiday!??  A devout Balinese Hindu, filling her yard with statues of gods and goddesses, she is the epitome of hospitality.  The experience was authentic and we could get into the skin of Balinese life with Mama Ary pre-emting every need. The sea was a walking distance and the elite Ku De Ta Restaurant, with its magnificent view, was 300meters away. After spending three nights we moved on to Ubud.

Bali accommodation can be availed at a back-packers hostel for 12USD to a luxurious stay at 1000USD.

As an after-thought, our taxi driver‘s face beamed like the eastern sun as he accepted his tip, not expecting one, I suppose, from the “no money People.” 

Our room

What did we eat?

You can’t leave Bali without having a plateful of Nasi Goreng (fried rice) Indonesia’s most notable dish. Opt for the Nasi Ayam Goreng (Chicken fried rice) which is a meal by itself and is available everywhere.

The ubiquitous Warungs or food-stalls selling various satays, Mae goreng (fried noodles) bebek batuta(smoked duck) Babi guling (barbecued pork) will cater to every taste bud. Top it off with a glass of brem (rice beer) if you are adventurous. Go to Jimbaran beach for sea-food .

 For the vegetarian there are Tohu and Tempi dishes (Soya Curd/cheese). Combine it with Sayur Urab (salad) rice and sambal (spicy sauce/gravy) and come back with a belly full without much of a dent in your pocket.

Besides, the local fare there is international cuisine available at all locations. Experience fine dining at The Chezgadogado, The Samaya Seminyak and Merah Putih or at Ubud.  Kuta beach is the most happening place for discos, bars and rock and roll. Breakfast at Ku DeTa perhaps, afternoon tea at Biku’s or Metis and dinner at a beach restaurant will complete your vacation.

Fish Veloute

Roast Pork

Satay

Shopping

Haggling, much as you may dislike it, is a part of the Balinese shopping experience, as in most Asian countries. It’s ingrained in their cultural ethos. Rules of etiquette are notionally laid out. Don’t ask for the price unless you want to buy it. While browsing around,(and take your time browsing till they get bored of you,) have a blank look, almost ignore the person, but once you start bargaining stretch your face into a smile, almost seductively, and be very polite. Go around all the shops for you may find something better at the corner end.

 Being  on a vacation I had  all the time in the world and quite enjoyed the experience.  Its basic economics, no art , and the one who has the better skill wins. A colourful Hawaii shirt for 500k IDR can be got for 100k IDR. Such is the power of bargaining. It is absent in Malls and branded shops but is evident even in upscale silver jewellery and craft out-lets. Bali’s wood-work is amazing and you may want to send a ship-load home. The island has been show-cased in its paintings . Buy one to add to the collection back home. Its worth it.

Very organized Flea market,Seminyak

What to see

Without going into details (information available on the net) let me give my own take on the island.(Seminyak) Experience a Balinese dance performance (Barung/Kecak/ Sanghyang) but make sure you read the synopsis of the event or else it won’t make sense.  

Snorkelling, surfing and jet-skiing for the fit , delve into their history by visiting temples, one museum at least  and monuments. Peep into a school. Go to the farmers’ market on the outskirts and have lunch in one of the Warungs (food stall) for 2 USD. Language may be a little bit of a problem there, as we experienced while ordering grilled prawns (Udang Gulah) in a restaurant near the daily market . We were literally taken to the kitchen space to make our point. But that’s the joy of being a traveller when you are accepted by the locals, even if it’s for a short while.  Hire a mo-bike and venture into the unknown. Soak yourself in the sea. What I loved most were the craters and calderas ...but more of that another time.

Dance recital

Incidentally out of 17000 islands in Indonesia, with 922 being permanently inhabited, Bali is the only island with 90% Balinese Hindu population.Their rituals are a little different from that of India.

 With more than 4 million tourists flying into the island of 5416sq kms, the Balinese have honed their skills in entertaining visitors.They are lovely people.

 The south-east corner (Kuta-Legian-Seminyak-Petitenget) has droves of selfie-stick carrying tourists which is sometimes tiring There are moments when you want to share space with less people. That can be had in Northern and Eastern Bali ...... pristine white beaches and rural splendour combined with modern amenities.  Far from the maddening crowd,as it were.....Head for one of the beaches  for a day or two before you return home. It will give you enough to brag about back home.

Let me end with a quotation, “The day, like all good days, passed off too quick.”

Yes, I wanna go back to the sun, sand and surf!!

evening at the beach