BALI----Island of the Gods

“The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes."          (M.Proust)

There is much more to Bali than the sun, surf, and sand. It is an offering from God to Mankind. For one, there is culture everywhere. Intricately carved Temples, elaborate dances and songs, gorgeous paintings, art-craft and the omnipresent daily offerings (canang sari) in front of every establishment.  Geographical attractions abound from craters to calderas, bays to spits to headlands. For relaxation,,  meditation and yoga will sweep your mind away from the daily humdrum. Indulge yourself in the reasonably –priced spas or opt for the five-star treatment.Golfing, cycling,scuba diving for the sporty folks. Keep the beach parties and the champagne toasts for the sunset. That is a different scene ...live music , dancing , good food , sitting on bean-bags as the ocean washes your feet.....Yes , Bali is a never-ending party , a celebration  where you get value for your money.

View from Restaurant Ku de ta

 How did we reach Bali?

Budget travellers that we are, we took the no-frills Air Asia flight to Bali via Kuala Lumpur, indulging ourselves with a flexi-ticket which allowed us to book our baggage and taste their not-so-tasty food. My travelling companion,the ever-thirsty Bee, took a while to locate a smoking-room (incorrigible he!) and a beer bar at the KL airport (low cost terminal) since they are not as visible as in other airports. Besides beer-drinking is not a budget-activity in Malaysia as the excise tax is one of the highest compared to neighbouring Asian countries. So be prepared all ye guys who need a beer to begin your vacation or solve all problems!!  

Ngurah Rai International airport, named after a Balinese war hero who died fighting the Dutch, is beautifully located on the narrowest point on the south coast of Bali. With 6.5 million passengers descending annually it was necessary to extend the runway westward towards the sea, reclaiming land, making the sight from above as beautiful as a childhood dream. At Denpesar airport (Bali) the easiest option is to take a pre-paid taxi but, surprisingly, may end up paying more than to a taxi driver waiting outside waving frantically to catch your attention. But a pre-paid cab saves time and energy, after a long flight. Besides, a few extra pennies will not break your bank.

Don’t en-cash much of your foreign exchange at the airport. Downtown Bali offer attractive rates.   Count your Indonesian rupaiya in front of the trader and never, NEVER give it back for a re-count for you may end up 20k/30k IR poorer.  They are very deft with their fingers.  

Tip: Blue-bird taxis are not allowed into the airport but you will find them outside. To go around the city make use of their services. Their meters run like Swiss clocks and the chauffeurs are informative. Avoid the others.

The Kura Kura bus service is another easy and comfortable way to go around Bali. But you must have a schedule in your hand to be aware of the timings and stoppages. This is available at any tourist information center.Passes are available for 1,3,5or7 days.

Nature's gift

Where did we stay

“Money, money people no live here,” pronounced the chatty driver almost with pity, as he bought the vehicle to a halt in front of Vera home stay, Seminyak. An old, traditional Balinese home converted into a guest house with eight rooms, it is almost always occupied. Credit goes to the elegant and graceful sarong-clad Mama Ary, a one –woman army, who welcomed us with Balinese rice cakes filled with sweet coconut, wrapped in a banana leaf and shaped like an Indian “samosa”. The rooms were clean with basic essentials....Air-conditioned, hot-water, electric kettle, fridge, toiletries and a platter of fruits. If you are a TV buff you will be disappointed.  She doesn’t provide one. There was a veranda in front of every room which made the smoker happy.  It was an open house and the kitchen could be used as and when necessary. But who wants to spend time in the kitchen on a short holiday!??  A devout Balinese Hindu, filling her yard with statues of gods and goddesses, she is the epitome of hospitality.  The experience was authentic and we could get into the skin of Balinese life with Mama Ary pre-emting every need. The sea was a walking distance and the elite Ku De Ta Restaurant, with its magnificent view, was 300meters away. After spending three nights we moved on to Ubud.

Bali accommodation can be availed at a back-packers hostel for 12USD to a luxurious stay at 1000USD.

As an after-thought, our taxi driver‘s face beamed like the eastern sun as he accepted his tip, not expecting one, I suppose, from the “no money People.” 

Our room

What did we eat?

You can’t leave Bali without having a plateful of Nasi Goreng (fried rice) Indonesia’s most notable dish. Opt for the Nasi Ayam Goreng (Chicken fried rice) which is a meal by itself and is available everywhere.

The ubiquitous Warungs or food-stalls selling various satays, Mae goreng (fried noodles) bebek batuta(smoked duck) Babi guling (barbecued pork) will cater to every taste bud. Top it off with a glass of brem (rice beer) if you are adventurous. Go to Jimbaran beach for sea-food .

 For the vegetarian there are Tohu and Tempi dishes (Soya Curd/cheese). Combine it with Sayur Urab (salad) rice and sambal (spicy sauce/gravy) and come back with a belly full without much of a dent in your pocket.

Besides, the local fare there is international cuisine available at all locations. Experience fine dining at The Chezgadogado, The Samaya Seminyak and Merah Putih or at Ubud.  Kuta beach is the most happening place for discos, bars and rock and roll. Breakfast at Ku DeTa perhaps, afternoon tea at Biku’s or Metis and dinner at a beach restaurant will complete your vacation.

Fish Veloute

Roast Pork

Satay

Shopping

Haggling, much as you may dislike it, is a part of the Balinese shopping experience, as in most Asian countries. It’s ingrained in their cultural ethos. Rules of etiquette are notionally laid out. Don’t ask for the price unless you want to buy it. While browsing around,(and take your time browsing till they get bored of you,) have a blank look, almost ignore the person, but once you start bargaining stretch your face into a smile, almost seductively, and be very polite. Go around all the shops for you may find something better at the corner end.

 Being  on a vacation I had  all the time in the world and quite enjoyed the experience.  Its basic economics, no art , and the one who has the better skill wins. A colourful Hawaii shirt for 500k IDR can be got for 100k IDR. Such is the power of bargaining. It is absent in Malls and branded shops but is evident even in upscale silver jewellery and craft out-lets. Bali’s wood-work is amazing and you may want to send a ship-load home. The island has been show-cased in its paintings . Buy one to add to the collection back home. Its worth it.

Very organized Flea market,Seminyak

What to see

Without going into details (information available on the net) let me give my own take on the island.(Seminyak) Experience a Balinese dance performance (Barung/Kecak/ Sanghyang) but make sure you read the synopsis of the event or else it won’t make sense.  

Snorkelling, surfing and jet-skiing for the fit , delve into their history by visiting temples, one museum at least  and monuments. Peep into a school. Go to the farmers’ market on the outskirts and have lunch in one of the Warungs (food stall) for 2 USD. Language may be a little bit of a problem there, as we experienced while ordering grilled prawns (Udang Gulah) in a restaurant near the daily market . We were literally taken to the kitchen space to make our point. But that’s the joy of being a traveller when you are accepted by the locals, even if it’s for a short while.  Hire a mo-bike and venture into the unknown. Soak yourself in the sea. What I loved most were the craters and calderas ...but more of that another time.

Dance recital

Incidentally out of 17000 islands in Indonesia, with 922 being permanently inhabited, Bali is the only island with 90% Balinese Hindu population.Their rituals are a little different from that of India.

 With more than 4 million tourists flying into the island of 5416sq kms, the Balinese have honed their skills in entertaining visitors.They are lovely people.

 The south-east corner (Kuta-Legian-Seminyak-Petitenget) has droves of selfie-stick carrying tourists which is sometimes tiring There are moments when you want to share space with less people. That can be had in Northern and Eastern Bali ...... pristine white beaches and rural splendour combined with modern amenities.  Far from the maddening crowd,as it were.....Head for one of the beaches  for a day or two before you return home. It will give you enough to brag about back home.

Let me end with a quotation, “The day, like all good days, passed off too quick.”

Yes, I wanna go back to the sun, sand and surf!!

evening at the beach