ISRAEL----dreaded yet polite airport security

Ben Gurion Airport

"Not I---Not anyone else can travel the road for you . You must travel it for yourself."  W.Whitman

We were mentally prepared for the unerring and almost infallible Israeli aviation security procedure –the questions, frisking, baggage scrutiny and the laptop checks except for the strip -search. No, we would not accept that; we would rather not go to the Holy Land. That would be a slur on our human dignity as senior citizens. What we never anticipated was that the interrogation would begin on home ground, in Mumbai.

It was a warm Friday Indian evening as we joined the serpentine queue to check in at the El Al counter. 

“It will be a long wait,” said my traveling partner Bee. But it was not to be so.

 A very friendly, young gentleman named Abraham beckoned us forward to the podium in front of the check-in counter. There were two of them, two sets of eyes as it were, and while Abraham asked us inane questions the other unsmilingly looked on. Questions like “When did you pack your bag? Where was it placed in the intervening period before leaving the house? Did you accept a gift to carry for a friend? Who lives with you? "No fire-eating queries!
He looked at my passport-photograph. "I've had a hair-cut," I quipped. He smiled but the looker-on ,with two marble eyes, didn't find it funny. 

Sometimes the questions were repeated as if he didn't remember asking them, while the second set of eyes observed. “No madam, you cannot lock your suitcase” and with that last instruction we could proceed to the El Al counter.

Later, we were told that they were officers of the Israeli security dressed as El Al staff. Fair enough, with Israel being surrounded by hostile countries it is only but natural that so much caution is taken by the nation. The country has not seen aviation security fail for over 40 years.

The white sticker with 13 digit number

Our suitcases were given a green tag and a white sticker pasted on the back of our passport with a number beginning with 2. Visitors are divided into 6 categories. While category 1,2,3 are safe under which fall Israeli citizens, Jews and friendly foreigners, travellers with 4 and 5 are under the scanner and 6 is hostile entrants. Henceforth, Visits to museums, theatres and religious places where security checks take place will depend on the number that you hold. Do not remove the sticker or the green tag throughout your stay in Israel. 

The classification of numbers is on profiling or, to use the new word “differentiating” based on race, religion, dress, gender, country of origin, countries you have visited and the contents in your baggage. If you are a Muslim or an Arab or visited many Muslim countries there’s every chance that you will fall under 5 or 6. Since technology is not always infallible in averting terrorist attacks, e.g. 9/11 disaster, the human factor is brought in …. two sets of vigilant eyes, the interrogation and frisking. The stickers pasted to your passport could be of various colors. I saw some with yellow ones, but we were given a white.

The green sticker; similar one pasted to baggage

Often I am surprised how many keen travelers do not want to visit this fascinating and incredible nation not because of the grenades from the Gaza Strip landing at your feet or the missiles in the Golan Heights but for the fear that an Israeli stamp on your passport may not allow you to visit Muslim countries. There is an iota of accuracy in that. Not for all Muslim countries but for Iran, Pakistan, Afghanistan etc.for sure. 

However, Israel has investigated this problem and like all problems have come up with a solution. Ben Gurion Airport since 2013 has stopped stamping passports. This has been replaced by an entry card, your entry visa, which you must retain safely till you exit the country.
 Point to remember is that if you enter Israel through the land border e.g. Egypt, the Egyptians will put a stamp “Taba Border crossing” which would imply that you entered Israel and any discerning Muslim country would know you visited Israel. Therefore, plan your holiday carefully, with a lot of thought.

Entry card...keep it safe

You can be sure that the surveillance cameras are on you as you enter Ben Gurion Airport with its perfect settings and temperature. You may or may not be questioned at the entry. We had a smooth sail. Immigration was easy too. No questions of a confounding nature or body search, perhaps because of the white sticker on our passport. You may be asked for your laptop, cell-phone internet/FB password as the officials scan and sieve your bio-data.

Having collected our baggage, we proceeded to catch the train to Ha Hagana train station and on-wards to Jerusalem. At the hotel we found our suitcases were turned inside out. Nothing was missing and we were not surprised.

On the return trip as you exit the country, leave for the airport well ahead. Checks begin at a gate well ahead of the terminal building. Gun-toting commandos will peer into the car and may /may not ask you questions. A license -plate reading technology sets off an alarm if the vehicle is under suspicion.

Much has been written about the different security layers. That it is complicated, challenging civil liberties, intrusive and time-consuming. It is a debatable matter.

 Yet, our experience tells us that an honest, harmless traveler who wants to see the Holy Land will face no challenges ending a great holiday among friendly souls.

" We do not rejoice in victories. We rejoice when a new type of cotton is grown and when strawberries bloom in Israel." GOLDA MEIR

 

My travelling companion Bee at Ben Gurion Airport

Mahabalipuram ---Tamil Nadu

Arjuna's Penance

         "I like sculpture . It is physical, created with the hands,                                          brains and heart, maybe."

I love visiting temples, cathedrals, gompas or monasteries, be it in Chartres (France), Meteora (Greece) Blue Mosque (Turkey) or Taktsang Monastery (Bhutan). I am not religious. There’s no spirituality or dharma involved in my visits. I love the  art and architecture that goes to add to the magnificence of the structure , to reflect on the circumstances and era that they were made and ponder over the vicissitudes of the artisans who put in so much effort to construct these edifices. This pursuit led us to hit the road and head for Mahaballipurm, Tamil Nadu (India) to see the “Shore Temple” and other UNESCO sites.

Shore Temple

Barely 54 kms from Chennai, we took the East Coast road with the Bay of Bengal splashing along the left, it is a small ancient town as old as Ptolemy, the Greek geographer. That it was an important trading base in days of yore is evident from the Roman and Greeks coins found in the area. Hueng Tsang, 7th Century Chinese traveler mentions Mahaballipurm in his writings.

It is believed the name Mahaballipurm comes from King Mahaballi who ruled over the area. Yet, there is another legend that the Pallava king, Narasimhavarman! Was renowned for his wrestling and hence Mamalla was given to honour him. Consequently, the town is known by two names Mahaballipurm and Mamallapuram. 

The sea at Mahaballipuram

There are many places to visit in the town and each visit may reveal something new.  The Rathas are rock- cut temples in the shape of five chariots, the Cave temples, Thirurukadalmalai Temple, Krishna’s butterball and  the Lighthouse. Each monument has a legend behind it .  The crocodile farms , if you don’t find them slimy , can be visited. The clean and relatively empty beach is comforting compared to other Indian beaches.  But my favorite was the Shore Temple, right on the sea, made of solid granite which has changed color because of the effect of the sea water. They look golden –red with beautiful carvings, much of it eroded and some of it having been restored. There were 7 temples of which only one remains. The others are believed to be under the sea. During the Tsunami of 2004, the sea withdrew 500 meters exposing remnants of the submerged six temples. The walk round the temple is beautiful. Don’t visit during a holiday when the rush of visitors takes away the joy of the visit. Another master-piece is the huge bas relief, supposedly the biggest in the world, called the Arjuna’s penance. The intricate details of natural phenomena, gods and mythological characters engraved on the rock front are astonishing.

Besides monument visiting, shopping can take some time. Handicrafts, jewelery, Brass, copper and stone figurines can be a collectors treasure –trove. Bargaining is a must in all the shops.  Sometimes you will be surprised at things that you bought for the price.          

Apart from the delicious cuisine of Dosa-idli-sambar, enjoy the sea-food. You’ll never have it so good. A good restaurant is Wok-to-Dhaba. Complete your day with the luscious, sweet water of a coconut.  There is so much to see that it would be wise to make a short-list of what would actually interest you and venture out accordingly. Don’t spoil your holiday rushing around leaving you tried at the end of the day.Take a guide to explain the minute details of what you see .He will advise you where and what to buy . Just chill and go slow especially on a hot day! Dark shades and a water bottle are a must.

Prawns

         "I go to the ocean to calm down, to re-connect with the                                                      creator,to just be happy."

Munnar--Kerela

                             "There comes........a longing never to travel again except on foot."

The drive from Coimbatore to Munnar is captivatingly beautiful. The scenic goodness is a photographer’s delight. After 110kms drive from Coimbatore we entered the Annamalai Tiger Forest Reserve.  As we were registering our names on the ledger at the check gate, we saw a few wild boars at a distance of 20 feet feeding on the berries and grass, undisturbed and content. The previous evening we were told that we may cross a tiger but were'nt lucky enough. The drive is beautiful and the roads are good. After approx 1 hour we entered Kerela ...The Chinnar wildlife Sanctuary and drove on for another 45mins before we entered the tea country of Munnar.

entering the state of Kerela

We  wove our way through the most beautiful tea area of South India. A blanket of greenery on undulating slopes edged with red poinsettias was a sight to behold. The curves on the roads were challenging and at times we had to be careful of the buses hurtling down the slopes along the two lane drive. We crossed 4 check gates, two in Tamil Nadu and two in Kerela, which was a little cumbersome and  felt they were unnecessary,

engaging staff who would have been better used for productive services elsewhere. On enquiry, we were told they were on the look-out for sandal smugglers!! Did we fit the bill??

Annamalai Tiger Reserve 

We rented a self-driven vehicle and were informed that an RTA(road transport authority) permit for Kerela would be issued at the border check-gate of the state .We spent 3 days without coming across any RTA security post only to be told while exiting the province that it should have been  taken at Pollachi or Adimaly. Therefore, remember to collect the necessary documents before entering any state in India.

Western Ghats

Munnar, an ecological hot-spot in the Western Ghats, is situated at 5200 feet above sea level. Established as the summer resort of the British elite, it is the home to tea-gardens, spice farms and a 

variety of birds. Waterfalls, gurgling streams and tribal folklore 

make the trip fascinating. The Kundala Dam Lake and Attukal 

waterfalls are worth visiting. The walking treks are amazing 

especially with a good guide who knows about the flora and fauna 

of the place. Breakfast and lunch is included. You have a choice of 

a half day or full day tour. The walk through a spice garden is also 

enlightening. As many as 12 different spices invaded our senses.  

Nutmegs

Your Munnar trip will be incomplete if you do not visit the Tata Tea 

Museum also known as the Kannan Devan Tea Museum. A 

documentary is shown followed by a talk and a demonstration of 

the tea-making process. Tea varities are sold at the factory out-let. 

The Munnar experience can be completed with a cultural trip to 

Punarjani Village where a traditional dance and martial arts 

performance is staged. We were lucky to see the Munnar flower 

show where an array of beautifully colored and scented


blossoms greeted us. It draws people from far and wide.

Small  waterfall during the dry season

Munnar town is like any other hill town of India. The town center has a number of shops which often get crowded. The bus terminus adds to the chaos at times. We therefore stayed at a B&B "The Shade” 35 kms away. Reasonably priced, you get true value for the money paid. The sunrise over the hills is a photographer’s delight. Santosh, the host, was friendly and helpful. The rooms are spot-less .Local cuisine is served which is delicious.They serve non-vegetarian food too.

 Breakfast with rice cakes at "The Shade"

Munnar, like most tourist destinations, is under threat of being over-run by hordes of visitors. Trees are being felled to give way to concrete resorts. Multi-storied hotels are dotting the hill-slopes, totally out-of-sync with the beautiful  landscape. Steps have to be taken to preserve and conserve the scenic stillness of the location. Limiting the footfalls of tourists would do a lot of good to the area.

            "If the bio-sphere is our host , why do we manipulate it for our benefit? "

Vishakapatnam ---a SMART City

                                  "Let's find some beautiful place to get lost ."


The Vishaka express chugged into the neat and clean station of Vishakhapatnam at 4.20pm. It was on the dot. The station was not over-crowded and we were not pestered by taxi-drivers.  The car took us through well laid out roads lined with perennial plants to the guest-house on Beach Road. Beautifully located, over-looking the Bay of Bengal, we watched the fishing boats sail in with their haul and cargo ships sail out to their destinations. 

The jewel of the East coast, the port of Vizag was set up in 1933 to facilitate the export of manganese ore. It played an important role during the World War II .After independence; the port was further developed to become the second largest port in the country. It is the HQ of the Eastern command of the Indian Navy.  You can reach the city by air, road or train. 

Popularly known as VIZAG

The city has a lot to offer. Sun-drenched beaches which are clean, hill-tops with breath-taking views and artistic temples The best part of the city is the beach road.There are a number of museums and memorials that can be visited. Tour buses, autos and taxis can you around. Take a guide when visi.ting temples.

Places to visit:

The submarine museum:

If you have never been on a submarine this is your chance. INS Kursura is India’s fifth sub-marine commissioned in 1969 and served the country for 31 years. It is one of the few submarine museums in Asia. It’s an eye-opener to the tough life of the sailors inside the submarine. If you are not used to enclosed areas you may suffer from claustrophobia. Entry fee is Rs40. Narration is brief and it will barely take you 30 mins to cover the entire vessel. 

Sub Museum

Kailash Giri

Easily accessible by bus, taxis and autos, there is a cable-car that will take you to the top. The toy train makes a round of the hill. Two massive statues of Shiva and Parvati stand tall and flood-lit at night.

Spare some time for the Telegu Museum at kailash Giri, showcasing the evolution of the Telegu language and history. The rotating pad takes the guests through an excellent 1 hour audio-visual presentation. Rushikonda beach is nearby.

Dolphin’s Nose

It is so called because the hill resembles a dolphin’s nose (or does it look like a whale?) The light house opens at 3pm. The view is amazing and Yarada beach lies at the bottom.

RK Beach Road

There are a lot of monuments along the beach road. The aquarium, the Victory at Sea war memorial and the Helicopter museum are along this road. Wide side-walks enable pedestrians to enjoy the sea and all that the city has to offer. Free Wi-Fi is available along the beach, 1GB per day.

Like most cities in India there are a lot of temples of which we visited the Simhachalam 

Rushikonda Beach

Andhra cuisine is a delightful mix of vegetarian and non-veg items. Proximity to the sea has made sea food a staple diet. Combined with tingling spices it’s a menu not to be missed. Apart from the dosa-idli-sambar breakfast dishes , sweets play an important part on every occasion among which the most popular are Ariselu (rice flour sesame) Junnu (milk pudding)Achappam (rose cookies) Muslim influences has resulted in biryani and halwa finding a place in the list of options.

Andhra cuisine

You will have no regrets visiting the city of Vishakhapatnam. The finest location is along the beach. Shopping areas are close.I bought two saris--- a Mangalgiri and a Gadwal--- from the nearby CMR mall.   Modern, clean, friendly, safe, tech-savvy, helpful....I needed medicines for an upset stomach and couldn’t locate a pharmacy on my GPS. Accurate directions by a gentleman took me to the right place. In fact, the last few meters I was guided by a school-boy. 

The metropolis provides the best without being too expensive. Just dive in and have fun!!!!! 

Orissa--a road trip

Chilka Lake

"Traveling makes you wise and humble."

Our road trip in Orissa began in Bhubaneshwar. We hired a Zoom-car, attached the GPS to the squeezy and took off for Pipli. A small dusty town made famous by its art and craft, a delight for the shopaholics who would like to pick up sun-umbrellas, canopies, totes, shopping bags etc. The streets are lined with stalls selling appliqué work making  the town colourfully delightful.

 The people of Oriya are simple, traditional, and fiercely religious. There is a temple at every bend. Bhubaneshwar is, not surprisingly, called the “the temple city.”  Religiosity consumes a lot of time, energy and money of the ordinary Oriya. Spiritually vibrant Jagganath in Puri is the most revered temple and is visited by 4million people every year, despite the  the lack of a peaceful and religious ambience. Pestering for money and brusque behaviour by the priests are familiar stories narrated by visitors leaving many to wonder why they ever visited the place. However things are changing and efforts are being made to bring about an orderliness. Non-Hindus are not allowed into the sanctum sanctorum.

Applique work at Pipli

We drove to Dhauli from Pipli, the place where Emperor Ashoka gave up warfare after the Battle of Kalinga and embraced Buddhism. Three of his edicts are preserved in a glass-case and a new Asoka pillar has been constructed to commemorate the event. The park and the edict are well maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India. The Shanti Stupa on top of the hill is worth a visit. The adjoining Shiva temple is a little disorganized and can be avoided.

We wove our way to the town of Konark, home of the “Black Pagoda”. The epithet was tagged because the temple appeared black to the sailors out at sea. It was believed a 52 tonne magnet in the temple attracted the ships towards it and  maintained a balance of the 5 temples in the precincts. The temple was plundered and the magnet robbed by the Portuguese. Consequently, the smaller temples crumbled leaving just one damaged temple standing precariously supported by scaffoldings. Representing a chariot of the sun-god driven on 24 wheels it was built by 1200 workers and took 12 years. It was never a practising temple, no offering was ever made and no “mantra” recited. Today it is beautifully maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India. There is a foot-path all around the edifice providing a 360 degree view. Restoration work has been going on for the last 15 . It would be wise to take a guide for Rs.150-200.The temple’s architecture and grandeur will unfold when explained by a guide. Stalls line the entrance where you can pick up trinkets and flop- hats for a steal. There are no star  hotels in Konark. It is best to commute from Puri or Bhubaneshwar. We stayed in “Surya Inn” which was not good enough . However it was conveniently located 400 metres from the temple and served our purpose. The Konark museum is worth a visit.  

Sun Temple, Konark

Next morning we drove to Chilka Lake via Puri. Chilka is a lagoon covering 1100sq kms, a huge expanse supposedly the largest brackish water lake in Asia.  Home to over 220 species of local and migratory birds, dolphins and variety of fish providing a life-line to all the fishing villages .We did get to see a lot of birds but few dolphins. A motor boat ride around the lake and islands is serene, interesting and informative. Be wary of guys who try to sell corals and pearls whose value is questionable.

pearls from oysters

The boys will break the oyster-shells and take out a pearl or two but don't be deceived ....they may not be genuine. On the down-side the touts for the boats can make your life miserable. You have to be politely firm with them.

Motor bikers can make you lose your peace of mind therefore drive cautiously. In Puri cows do the work of road dividers. Gushing pilgrims are unmindful of cars cruising around. Traffic policemen are not visible to regulate the flow. Driving is a herculean task. Life goes on without complaint and people appear not to be too unhappy.

We returned to Bhubaneswar on the third day to cover the tribal museum, Udaygiri caves, Lingaraj temple and KIT University which supports 22000 tribal children with free accommodation, food and education. An initiative by Achuyta Samanta it is a noble movement and has gone a long way to uplift the tribal society and curb insurgency. 22% of Orissa’s population belong to different tribes who are poor and down-trodden. The Bonda (the naked tribe) are a dwindling race leaving just about 12000 of them. Tribal art is very attractive. Silver filigree work, patachitra paintings, katki designed fabric and saris can be bought from the innumerable shops in and around the state capital.

Oriya cuisine is subtle in taste and low in calories. Among the sweets Rasabali and steamed chenna poda will take the first prize. Both are delicious. Many dishes are made with mustard be it vegetables or fish. Chakuli pitha is a breakfast dish resembling pancakes made with rice flour. Saaga Moonga (leafy vegetables cooked with lentils are popular. Tangy chutneys are also popular and there are many variations like tomato, oou (elephant apple) raw mango. But an Oriya meal is never complete without dalma, a dish made out of vegetables and lentils. It is offered to the Gods too.

The trip was an eye-opener to the state of Orissa. We just scratched the surface. Much more is yet to be discovered.

Chenapoda....steamed milk cake

                                         

                 

Kolkata--City of Joy

Howrah Station

                              " Kolkata is always dying but it never dies"

 Kolkata is a city where human values are not measured by material wealth but by the warmth, hospitality, cultural and intellectual abilities extended by ”bhadraloks” (gentlemen} It is chaotic, crowded, colourful,crazy and yet there is an orderliness in this madness. If you come once you will promise you’ll never come back again but once you are back home you will yearn to return to the city which stands by the river Hooghly, where the average nominal per capita income is $2000 per year, where you can have lunch for $1 and splash $200 dollars for dinner at a flashy 5 star hotel 

Most things don’t change in Kolkata. Therefore, the obsolete, loss-making trams still run on tracks   built by the British. Its ride through history but you can’t depend on them to reach an appointment, slow and sluggish that they are. The man-drawn rickshaws have stood the test of time no matter how cruel it looks.  Thousands would be thrown into the den of unemployment if they were to be withdrawn. The omnipresent yellow Ambassador-taxis are indispensable .Hindustan Motors factory but the Ambassador lives on in the metropolis. They are always at your beck and call through hail or storm, though some drivers may refuse to turn the metre on or may ask you for Rs10 extra.  “Nahoums” bakery in New Market is still selling its delicious fruit cakes from the same wooded cases that the Jewish owners had set up decades ago. Nobody wants anything to change. That’s the attraction of the place.

                                                     

Kolkata Tram

The British when they reached Kolkata brought not only the Queen’s language but also their baroque and neo-classical architecture, grand and over-powering. The National Library, Writer’s building ,the Grand Hotel, the Museum   remain very British in appearance  It is worth doing a architecture tour of the city which perhaps will take you more than a day.

 The iconic Victoria Memorial which stands imposingly in the centre of the city serves as a tourist attraction, a jogger’s park and picnic spot. However don’t go to any of the touristy places on holidays. It’s a melee.

                                             

Victoria Memorial

Each attraction in Kolkata is wrapped in a story. The old Howrah bridge and the new Vidyasagar Setu represents two eras, two Indias both different yet compatible.  I like the Howrah railway station with its 23 platforms and the big clock( it's not working now) which was built in 1926 by Gent’s of London serving as a prominent meeting point for many.

The Bengali cuisine excites the palate like no other. River or sea fish is an integral part of the menu. The “Rasgolla “and sweet curd is the finale to a hearty meal. Some note-worthy restaurants are Oh Kolkata (10/3Elgin Road) Kasturi (Ballygunge) and Bhojohori Manna (Gariahat)

 Upmarket Park Street hosts a number of good restaurants and a few offer music in the evenings. Go to “Flury’s “for an English breakfast or afternoon tea, “Cha Bar “at Oxford Book Store for a mid-morning cuppa to taste the original Darjeeling or Assam tea while browsing through a book. Dinner could be at “Mocambo “Bar-B-Q” or “Peter Cat”.  Originally the street was through a deer park, hence its name. Officially, it is known as Mother Theresa Sarani.

Plate of Rasgullas

 Kolkata clubs are little islands of British culture. Every member holds very dearly to the customs, mores and etiquette and is more British than the British themselves. The Tollygunge club is the only country club in India more than 220 years old. The Bengal club is famous for its Christmas lunch. Should you get an invite to any of them, don’t miss out. 

Kolkata has provided a home for one and all. Parses, Greeks, Armenians, Jews, Chinese and the English have made it their home over the years, each community contributing to its growth. Around 2000 Chinese have their own China Town where Chinese festivals are celebrated. Mother Theresa made it her own and brought joy to many. A visit to her home will complete your trip.  We decided to make it by foot. With GPS data connection poor and human GPS most unreliable (we asked two policemen, three gentlemen, and two shop-keepers for directions) we walked a maze of streets covering 4.9 kms to reach the home ....serene and peaceful.....an island of bliss in this noisy city....it was worth it !!!!But what surprised me was that 7 people didn’t know where it was located....People’s memories are very short unfortunately. Besides the walk was not easy .The sidewalks have been converted to showrooms for tyers and garments leaving us to the mercy of cars that zoomed by.

My love-hate relationship with the city has brought me back an umpteenth number of times and every time I have something new to write home about. 

At Mother's Home