Orissa--a road trip

Chilka Lake

"Traveling makes you wise and humble."

Our road trip in Orissa began in Bhubaneshwar. We hired a Zoom-car, attached the GPS to the squeezy and took off for Pipli. A small dusty town made famous by its art and craft, a delight for the shopaholics who would like to pick up sun-umbrellas, canopies, totes, shopping bags etc. The streets are lined with stalls selling appliqué work making  the town colourfully delightful.

 The people of Oriya are simple, traditional, and fiercely religious. There is a temple at every bend. Bhubaneshwar is, not surprisingly, called the “the temple city.”  Religiosity consumes a lot of time, energy and money of the ordinary Oriya. Spiritually vibrant Jagganath in Puri is the most revered temple and is visited by 4million people every year, despite the  the lack of a peaceful and religious ambience. Pestering for money and brusque behaviour by the priests are familiar stories narrated by visitors leaving many to wonder why they ever visited the place. However things are changing and efforts are being made to bring about an orderliness. Non-Hindus are not allowed into the sanctum sanctorum.

Applique work at Pipli

We drove to Dhauli from Pipli, the place where Emperor Ashoka gave up warfare after the Battle of Kalinga and embraced Buddhism. Three of his edicts are preserved in a glass-case and a new Asoka pillar has been constructed to commemorate the event. The park and the edict are well maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India. The Shanti Stupa on top of the hill is worth a visit. The adjoining Shiva temple is a little disorganized and can be avoided.

We wove our way to the town of Konark, home of the “Black Pagoda”. The epithet was tagged because the temple appeared black to the sailors out at sea. It was believed a 52 tonne magnet in the temple attracted the ships towards it and  maintained a balance of the 5 temples in the precincts. The temple was plundered and the magnet robbed by the Portuguese. Consequently, the smaller temples crumbled leaving just one damaged temple standing precariously supported by scaffoldings. Representing a chariot of the sun-god driven on 24 wheels it was built by 1200 workers and took 12 years. It was never a practising temple, no offering was ever made and no “mantra” recited. Today it is beautifully maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India. There is a foot-path all around the edifice providing a 360 degree view. Restoration work has been going on for the last 15 . It would be wise to take a guide for Rs.150-200.The temple’s architecture and grandeur will unfold when explained by a guide. Stalls line the entrance where you can pick up trinkets and flop- hats for a steal. There are no star  hotels in Konark. It is best to commute from Puri or Bhubaneshwar. We stayed in “Surya Inn” which was not good enough . However it was conveniently located 400 metres from the temple and served our purpose. The Konark museum is worth a visit.  

Sun Temple, Konark

Next morning we drove to Chilka Lake via Puri. Chilka is a lagoon covering 1100sq kms, a huge expanse supposedly the largest brackish water lake in Asia.  Home to over 220 species of local and migratory birds, dolphins and variety of fish providing a life-line to all the fishing villages .We did get to see a lot of birds but few dolphins. A motor boat ride around the lake and islands is serene, interesting and informative. Be wary of guys who try to sell corals and pearls whose value is questionable.

pearls from oysters

The boys will break the oyster-shells and take out a pearl or two but don't be deceived ....they may not be genuine. On the down-side the touts for the boats can make your life miserable. You have to be politely firm with them.

Motor bikers can make you lose your peace of mind therefore drive cautiously. In Puri cows do the work of road dividers. Gushing pilgrims are unmindful of cars cruising around. Traffic policemen are not visible to regulate the flow. Driving is a herculean task. Life goes on without complaint and people appear not to be too unhappy.

We returned to Bhubaneswar on the third day to cover the tribal museum, Udaygiri caves, Lingaraj temple and KIT University which supports 22000 tribal children with free accommodation, food and education. An initiative by Achuyta Samanta it is a noble movement and has gone a long way to uplift the tribal society and curb insurgency. 22% of Orissa’s population belong to different tribes who are poor and down-trodden. The Bonda (the naked tribe) are a dwindling race leaving just about 12000 of them. Tribal art is very attractive. Silver filigree work, patachitra paintings, katki designed fabric and saris can be bought from the innumerable shops in and around the state capital.

Oriya cuisine is subtle in taste and low in calories. Among the sweets Rasabali and steamed chenna poda will take the first prize. Both are delicious. Many dishes are made with mustard be it vegetables or fish. Chakuli pitha is a breakfast dish resembling pancakes made with rice flour. Saaga Moonga (leafy vegetables cooked with lentils are popular. Tangy chutneys are also popular and there are many variations like tomato, oou (elephant apple) raw mango. But an Oriya meal is never complete without dalma, a dish made out of vegetables and lentils. It is offered to the Gods too.

The trip was an eye-opener to the state of Orissa. We just scratched the surface. Much more is yet to be discovered.

Chenapoda....steamed milk cake