Friday 9 February 2018

Mahabalipuram ---Tamil Nadu

Arjuna's Penance



         "I like sculpture . It is physical, created with the hands,                                          brains and heart, maybe."



I love visiting temples, cathedrals, gompas or monasteries, be it in Chartres (France), Meteora (Greece) Blue Mosque (Turkey) or Taktsang Monastery (Bhutan). I am not religious. There’s no spirituality or dharma involved in my visits. I love the  art and architecture that goes to add to the magnificence of the structure , to reflect on the circumstances and era that they were made and ponder over the vicissitudes of the artisans who put in so much effort to construct these edifices. This pursuit led us to hit the road and head for Mahaballipurm, Tamil Nadu (India) to see the “Shore Temple” and other UNESCO sites.


Shore Temple
Barely 54 kms from Chennai, we took the East Coast road with the Bay of Bengal splashing along the left, it is a small ancient town as old as Ptolemy, the Greek geographer. That it was an important trading base in days of yore is evident from the Roman and Greeks coins found in the area. Hueng Tsang, 7th Century Chinese traveler mentions Mahaballipurm in his writings.

It is believed the name Mahaballipurm comes from King Mahaballi who ruled over the area. Yet, there is another legend that the Pallava king, Narasimhavarman! Was renowned for his wrestling and hence Mamalla was given to honour him. Consequently, the town is known by two names Mahaballipurm and Mamallapuram. 

The sea at Mahaballipuram
There are many places to visit in the town and each visit may reveal something new.  The Rathas are rock- cut temples in the shape of five chariots, the Cave temples, Thirurukadalmalai Temple, Krishna’s butterball and  the Lighthouse. Each monument has a legend behind it .  The crocodile farms , if you don’t find them slimy , can be visited. The clean and relatively empty beach is comforting compared to other Indian beaches.  But my favorite was the Shore Temple, right on the sea, made of solid granite which has changed color because of the effect of the sea water. They look golden –red with beautiful carvings, much of it eroded and some of it having been restored. There were 7 temples of which only one remains. The others are believed to be under the sea. During the Tsunami of 2004, the sea withdrew 500 meters exposing remnants of the submerged six temples. The walk round the temple is beautiful. Don’t visit during a holiday when the rush of visitors takes away the joy of the visit. Another master-piece is the huge bas relief, supposedly the biggest in the world, called the Arjuna’s penance. The intricate details of natural phenomena, gods and mythological characters engraved on the rock front are astonishing.

Besides monument visiting, shopping can take some time. Handicrafts, jewelery, Brass, copper and stone figurines can be a collectors treasure –trove. Bargaining is a must in all the shops.  Sometimes you will be surprised at things that you bought for the price.          

Apart from the delicious cuisine of Dosa-idli-sambar, enjoy the sea-food. You’ll never have it so good. A good restaurant is Wok-to-Dhaba. Complete your day with the luscious, sweet water of a coconut.  There is so much to see that it would be wise to make a short-list of what would actually interest you and venture out accordingly. Don’t spoil your holiday rushing around leaving you tried at the end of the day.Take a guide to explain the minute details of what you see .He will advise you where and what to buy . Just chill and go slow especially on a hot day! Dark shades and a water bottle are a must.

Prawns


         "I go to the ocean to calm down, to re-connect with the                                                      creator,to just be happy."

1 comment:

  1. Lovely to read about your adventures Arun Aunty! Do keep writing

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