Sri Lanka......Hikkaduwa

Sri Lanka---an Emerald in the Indian Ocean

Our passion for travelling took us to Sri Lanka to explore the country intricately woven into India's mythology, history and geography.

The flight..........
We boarded an 80 seater Bombardier on India's Independence Day, the 15^th August. Spice-jet executives had decorated their counter with the tri-colours of green, white and saffron and offered sweets that were of the same colours. All passengers were given a sticker of the Indian flag.

 Hurray! That’s how we landed in Colombo, an airplane-load of patriotic Indians in their holiday best. The flight took off from Chennai like a sea-gull only to land within 25 minutes at Colombo's Bandarnaike International Airport, the sole international airport in the island-country.




Bee, my travelling companion, has honed his skills in budget travelling. He takes a month or two to prepare his itinerary and the expenditure that entails. An excellent job he does of it, because every holiday has been comfortable and enjoyable, bringing us back with memories we will always cherish.

On landing in Colombo, we took the nearest tuk-tuk available who over- charged us with 1600 SL rupees, the actual fee, we were told later, being 1300SL. But these anomalies are a part of the tourist package, especially in a developing country.Besides , don't waste your time haggling over a few pennies....its spoils your holiday! There are taxis aplenty and buses too but we decided on a tuk-tuk. After an hour’s drive we reached the railway station .We went looking for 1st class tickets to Hikkaduwa following tourist instructions from the internet, only to be told that there were no 1st class compartments in that train ; therefore we settled for the next best option of buying two 2nd class tickets for 160SL a piece. So , do remember that all information given on tourist sites are not always up-dated !!

The train journey...........

 

Like all Sri Lankans, the guard at the gate was very polite and helpful and directed us to the

     right platform. Seeing the huge crowd I almost decided against boarding the coach. There were       no seatsavailable on the passenger train for a good half an hour, therefore I perched myself on my baggage by a window. Hawkers selling goodies wound their way through the passengers doing brisk business. There were coconut slices, tamarind, local savouries, and cold drinks et el. The          passengers were well-mannered, no jostling, pushing or pinching; in fact one gentleman offered his seat well ahead of his station.  

                     

View enroute to Hikkaduwa

                     
Every shortfall of the train journey was made up by the scenery outside. The train wound itself along the sea-coast of the Indian Ocean which was a sight to behold!!For 98 kms it was just "the sea, the sea, the beautiful sea.”The cool breeze made the journey comfortable. We reached Hikkaduwa station after two and a half hours during which I took a nap, made polite conversation with my co-passenger, and admired the world go by.

Our destination: Hikkaduwa ............

It is a small touristy town and the station is even smaller. Many passengers got down and so did we. A tuk-tuk took us to the hotel, paying through our nose 300SL, too tired to haggle with the over-worked but courteous driver...

To go to Hikkaduwa town –centre you can take a bus for 30SL or a tuk-tuk for 200SL from the resort.

We checked into the White Pearl Beach Resort............

The USP of White Pearl Beach resort was that it was bang on the sea located in Putuwatha, 4 kms off Hikkaduwa. An 8-bedroom Sri Lankan bungalow converted into a cushy resort. Anand, the owner-chef-caretaker splits his year between Italy and Sri Lanka. During the summer months he works in a resort in Italy, working on his network of potential tourists to his homeland; and in winter he is running his resort here. We were lucky to get him as he was an excellent cook and took personal care of his guests. He was assisted by Laxman, his man Friday. Between the two the resort ran smoothly and during the tourist season in winter other helpers chipped in.

The back veranda at the Resort facing the sea

As it was the off-season there were only two couples, a honeymooning Ukrainian twosome and us, which gave the place the privacy of a home with an in-house cook and bearer. The room on the first floor provided a private balcony and a magnificent view of the sea. The hotel provided hot-water, air-conditioning.  Free Wi-Fi was available at the lobby. Breakfast came with the package. Busesstop in front of the resort. Taxis and tuk-tuks were available. What more can you expect for $40 a day !!!

              

                                         The sea lured us into taking a dip every now and then.

The surroundings..............

The beach was not crowded and the sand was as white as pearls can be. The trawlers brought in the fish every evening to the harbour which was walking distance. We had the privilege of selecting our own fish which Anand worked upon to create a gastronomical delight. So it was Seer, tuna, lobster, bass, mackerel and barracuda for us to savour the whole week. 

The haul

A visit to Galle on the southernmost tip of the country is a must .We set out but the day being steamy hot  we cut short our trip and came back at 3pm to find that the resort was locked. Anand and Laxman had gone off shopping as we had told them that we would return late evening. We took a side road, walked down the beach and entered the back veranda, stripped and dived into the sea. The freedom was exhilarating. The monsoon waves were high; the beach was empty and later we relaxed on the extended arm–chairs by the beach.

At the Gaulle Fort

                                     
Souvenir shops, cafes, water sports outlets line the main road of Hikkaduwa. Evenings can be well spent browsing around and ending the day at the Tree-top restaurant for dinner and music.

                             

Our favourite joint ....THE TREE-TOP RESTAURANT


What else did we do in Hikkaduwa??????

We ate and ate and ate.......burrp, burrpp...Prices were very reasonable and food yummy!!!

Lobsters

Fish, french fries and salad

Banana Roll with honey

Papaya Juice

The end...............

Like all good things our vacation in Sri Lanka came to an end. We took the new, impressive expressway to the airport from Hikkaduwa. Boarding the Spice Jet flight to Madurai, we promised to come back to this idyllic place.

The trip was over but memories will last forever .As the plane took off I glanced down.  Through the window I saw the beautiful “green emerald” lying in the Indian Ocean,  its waters washing the coast in a serene and calm manner.

Thomas Merton wrote about Sri Lanka thus…. ………..”I don’t know when in my life I have ever had such a sense of beauty and spiritual validity running together in an aesthetic illumination.” 
Truly a “jewelled pendant” for us to appreciate.

KHAJURAHO....Poetry in Sandstone

How did we reach Khajuraho?

                                                     “Life is like a journey on a train”

We flew into Delhi from Guwahati, Assam and then caught the UP Sampark Kranti Express 12448/slip which becomes 22448 minus the slip. The “slip” factor is interesting and needs a little explanation. The Sampark Kranti ‘s scheduled trail is from Nizzamuddin (Delhi) to a place called Manikpur in Madhya Pradesh , but as the train reaches Mahoba  a few coaches are “slipped” off and attached to another engine which weaves its way to Khajuraho. We slept on without being disturbed only to wake up at Khajuraho at 7am.

Unlike other day train journeys in India which are veritable Grand Bazaars with hawkers selling everything and anything from mobiles to toys to “jhal –muri” and soothing Chinese balms, the S. Kranti being an over-night train was bereft of all the essentials that make a train journey in India so interesting. I also missed the nosey co-passengers who want to bet our complete bio-data to scrutinize and analyse. Instead we had for company groups of Vietnamese, Europeans and a couple of Indians, each carrying their own aromas in their packed dinner. We had to endure the tower of Babel till the lights went off for a sound sleep.

For those who have a penchant for air-travel, there is no direct flight from Delhi to Khajuraho, each flight entailing one stop in either Bhopal, Raipur etc. 

"You have to create your life.You have to carve it like a sculpture"

Western Group

I fell in love with the masons and sculptors who created the  commendably magnificent structures which today is Khajuraho.....sculptors long dead and gone buried unknown and unsung  .Only  undiluted  passion , unflinching commitment and deft fingers could have created such perfect bodies displaying life  in its minutest detail.

Much has been written about the acrobatically erotic and amorously lusty figurines, (which is just 12% of the sculptures), for which hordes of global and local tourists visit. They are beautiful and unsinful to view and appreciate, despite our hypocritical attitude towards sex today .Our guide Mahendra Singh, aged and knowledgeable, gave a philosophical interpretation to all the carvings, invoking tantricism and yoga which made every statue almost sacrosanct and blessed. Every act is a part of a much wider set of yogic practices which aim to make the human body flexible and healthy using postures, breathing and meditation to reach the ultimate.

Every detail of Life is depicted

Subtle humour can be discerned in some of the carvings. One which we noted was of an elephant smirking at a couple making love. Human emotions in every form are reflected by the artisans in their work.

A UNESCO World heritage site, it originally had 85 temples but today only 25 remain. Built in honour of Lord Shiva, Vishnu and the Jain patriarchs  they have withstood the ravages of nature and Man.

 Khajuraho ‘s chiselled work is as good as ,if not better, than  the Cathedral at Chartres (France) and Alhambra , Granada(Spain).        Many may disagree with me on the ground that the culture and period differ, but it goes without saying that the dedication and commitment of the workers in all three iconic places remain the same.

 There is not a single inch in each temple that has not been artistically carved.

The temple at 6.30am

\The best time to visit the temples is early morning (the gates open at 6.30am) or in the evening. As the sun rises the rays pour straight through the gate/ door striking the massive “lingam” located in sanctum of the Khandariya Mahadeva temple which is the largest /tallest in the campus. But as far as awesome sculptures are concerned the Lakshmana temples bags the prize. All the carvings are on the outer walls. The inside is serene and sublime!

     

Mid-day.......a wee bit hot

There is a cafe within the campus for the much needed cuppa after the awe-inspiring, adrenaline –gushing tour. Take a break and relax under the trees!!! Don’t forget to carry a water-bottle especially if it is sunny.    

We spent a full day in the area taking liberty to give our own interpretations which sometimes were a little naughty, annoying our respectable guide.  Preparations for battles, the ladies in their boudoir, animals being herded to the fields ....every aspect of life was represented with finesse and perfection.    The precision, the mathematical calculations and effort put in goes without saying. The temples reflect the grandeur and resplendence of the Chandela kings without whose patronage Khajuraho would have remained a flat land. 

"SCULPTURE IS THE ART OF THE INTELLIGENCE"..........Pablo Picasso

The temple grounds are immaculately maintained by the ASI with manicured lawns and flowers blooming. If nature’s call is too strong toilets can be located, tucked away in one corner.

                        

Don’t miss the Sound and Light Show where the Spirit of the sculptors is represented by Indian actor, Amitabh Bachcan’s voice.

 The Eastern and Southern temples also deserves a “dekko” but they are not as alluring as the eastern group.

Where did we stay?

I once read “I always wish the hotels were like they were in movies and TV shows, where if you are in Paris the Eiffel tower was right outside the window. In any part of Egypt, the Pyramids are right there.”

With these words in mind we selected Isabella Palace, which has been named after the owner's beautiful and charming daughter........but it was far from being a Palace.  A family –run budget hotel with 25 rooms , each room spick-and span , “sterilized and sanitized” as it were, with friendly staff who would walk the extra mile for you. You can while away your extra time in their small garden or take an ayurvedic massage from a burly, muscular guy who treats your body like a mould of clay. Breakfast is included in the package. The roof-top terrace is well lit with fairy lights after dusk creating an ambience that calls for a glass of “bubbly.” You get value for your money. 

                                 Picture of the hotel's garden from the balcony of our room

                                                            Well-maintained bed-room

Khajuraho Town

                                                “Walk the town to get its flavour.”

A touristy town with a population of about 35, 000 in the area that matters, it is planned and relatively clean. Everyone, big or small, knows a smattering of a foreign language thanks to the annual visitors. Dotted with little shops, cafes and hotels, you can go around in a bicycle, tuk-tuk, cars or walk. Prices for tourist guides and conveyance are fixed by the Tourism department, so chances of getting cheated are minimal. If you want to pick up knick-knacks, curios don’t go to the fancy outlets; the pedestrian shops offer things at half the price after a little haggling. For Maheshwari and Chanderi saris head to the state emporiums. 

  Let me end with Osho -speak.....”You have to pass through the door and go beyond. And the beyond is nothing but utter emptiness.”That is what Khajuraho symbolizes.

GardeningInPots

 GardeningInPots

                                      "A weed is but an unloved flower"

The pleasure of growing your own flowers is inexplicable. As a child, mother had a contingent of four gardeners (Malis) in the tea-gardens of Assam to grow an array of colourful flowers during the winter season in India. She had it all in her floral space from Sweet Williams to larkspur, verbenas and cosmos.  

 When I was fourteen Dad shifted to the hill station of Shillong where he bought a lovely house with a small garden. Mother did not have too many helping hands then but she managed a rambling garden full of pink and white azaleas, hydrangeas, cosmos, petunias and gerberas. Those days we didn’t have the ubiquitous cell-phone to click pictures randomly at everything and anything. A pity or else we could have framed some beautiful gardens for posterity.

Once I got married we always had a garden of our own in the different places of postings in small “mofussil” towns. But the children and my profession did not allow me to spend much time in the garden. Flowers were a plenty and vegetables in abundance but the credit goes to the gardeners who followed my instructions. They did a wonderful job. I remember Ram” mali”( we were in Dergaon then , a small town in Upper Assam) who would not let me point a finger at any flower lest the “evil eye” destroyed it. We had a split level lawn where the taller flowers were grown in the lower lawn and the smaller selection in the upper lawn. Trophies and awards came in after every flower show. But the credit was absolutely that of the gardeners. Kudos to them and to their knowledge of flowers and vegetables.

After 36 years of marital bliss, semi-retired and the children having flown the nest I now spend a lot of time growing flowers and herbs in pots. I do it all by myself  from scratch. No gardeners!!!!  It’s been a trial and error process and I have much to learn. This is my first year.

1. 2015, 20^th November

1.       I selected 80 pots and got them cleaned and painted. Next I made a mixture of soil and organic manure (cow-dung) and filled them up.

2.       I gathered my  tools , cleaned and ready.

My tools

2.  Bought a watering can for Rs. 200/- at the Agriculture Exposition in Guwahati, Assam

                 

3.                                

                                 3.     Visited the local nursery and bought the following saplings.

a)      2dozen petunias

b)      1 dozen verbenas

c)       1 dozen pansies

d)      1 dozen impatiens

e)      And the rest with tomatoes, lettuce, bell peppers , coriander, chillis and mint

                        

4. I watered them very lightly the first day and provided shade for two days to protect them from the hot mid-day sun. From the third day the shades were removed.

                             

5. After a few days I realized that birds love to chew on the young leaves, so something had to be done about it. I made a mesh with thread over the flowers to keep the chirpy featured creatures at bay. You can use shinny, glittering paper stuck to sticks to scare them away.To my dismay the little ones were persistent and still managed to nibble at a few leaves.

              

6. The saplings were planted on the 20^th of Nov.2015. After ten days I tilled the soil with a small spade and added a spoonful of organic manure. Every two weeks I will be adding a spoonful of manure for a month.

7. On the 3^rd Dec2015, fourteen days after the saplings were planted there was a strong wind and some rain. I was sure my plants were damaged. Next morning when I went up to the Terrace I found they were looking healthier than usual with the sun shining down on them.

8. Every morning and evening, I look forward to watering the plants. Its theraupatic  With plenty of sun-shine on the terrace ,the saplings look happy. They have grown in 20 days.

Tomato

Petunia

Chilli

Pansy

     

9. I have divided the plants into two groups and I plan to manure them every two weeks for a month. The first round has been done.

        10. After a Month (20^th December 2015)

  

      It’s a month now since I planted my saplings.  I have added manure  twice so far, and water them       once a day. Last week there was a heavy shower on two consecutive days, therefore watering was       not necessary for three days. Just insert your finger in the soil and see if it is moist. Over-watering       is harmful for plants, especially petunias. They hate cold and wet feet.

         11. As you can see below the lettuce is doing well. These simple leaves add to the garnishing              of a dish . It goes without saying that they are good for health too.

 

Lettuce

                                     

12. Tilling and weeding is a continuous process. I love my work on the terrace.

It is necessary to nip the ends of petunias, verbenas and pansies to get a bushy plant with more flowers. So once you have 8 to 10 leaves you can nip the end.

13. The versatility of the Mint goes without saying .A pretty decorative herb, it gives out a beautiful fragrance, good to make chutneys and can be used to repel flies . After one and half months of growth I had many pots of mint.

                                       

14. 10^th January

Today I saw my first Pansy bloom. My happiness knew no bounds. More so because it was just one day before my son’s birthday. The flowers were manured every two weeks for one month. Truthfully my soil was not very good, a little sandy; therefore frequent fertilizing of the plants was necessary. Now onwards,

                             

            Since they have started blooming ,I will be using liquid manure once a month.

15. Growing Coriander was a challenge. I had tried growing them once before but failed. I soaked the seeds in water. Next day, the seeds were split (halved) and then scattered them in a bowl filled with soil, covering it with cellophane to get a green-house effect.

                        

After 15 days they sprouted and by the end of 1  1/2 months  we could pluck enough to garnish a meal.

New sprouts (pic not clear because of cellophene)

   

16. The Chilli plant did not fare as well as I expected.  I expect the bell-peppers to do better....keeping my fingers crossed!!

Green Chillis

17. Today is the 22^nd of February, exactly 3 months 2 days since I planted my saplings. I have enough blossoms to make me happy. The vibrant Verbenas add vitality to my life. A few almost died. I actually talked to them and told them to fight and live because they were vivacious and beautiful.     

Verbenas

18. The petunias flower in profusion. They don’t like to be pampered. In fact they grow best in neglect.They come in a riot of colours adding beauty to the landscape.

the pinkies 

I love the “bloody red” petunias.They remind me of Love, Hope , Vibrancy which I need in abundance at the age of 59. 

19. The varied faced Pansies provide food for thought. You wonder whether they are happy or sad .They have a mystique to their existence.....my daughter says such beautiful flowers should not be called “pansies”; on seeing a Pansy my 3year old grand-daughter says"eyes,eyes,nose and mouth", my husband finds them foolish looking...... I adore them, dainty darlings all in a row.....

                                                

20. Impatiens is bright, cheerful and easy to grow. They don’t like too much water. These long lasting seasonals are easy to propagate.

                     

21. Kalanchoes are perennials, tropical, succulent, in many colours .Like most succulents they are easy to propagate.  Truthfully I never looked after them much but they did well with a little bit of liquid manure. They stand upright like the sentry guards and live long...adding hues to the garden. This plant is 2 years old.

                    

                    

  

This is my first blog on gardening and I hope to continue.More pictures will be posted, more colour, more radiance to add cheer to your life.

There is divinity to every action and so be it for gardening . As someone had said, Flowers  are “sunshine, food and medicine for the soul”