GRANADA-----Spain

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GRANADA-----SPAIN

View of Granada

“How lazily the sun goes down in Granada, it hides beneath the water, it conceals in the Alhambra.”(Ernest Hemingway.)

GRANADA ,Spain.

“The Last sigh of the Moors” by Lauryn Christopher, touched my not-too-strong heart with an intense poignancy that made me want to visit Granada, in the province of Andalusia. It was the last bastion of the Moorish kings .The Moors ruled southern Spain for 700years before Boabdil, the last king, handed over the key of Granada to King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella thus completing the Christian” Reconquista” of the Iberian Peninsula.

 It was the first time I had heard about the magnificent Alhambra which led me to read further about that era. “Tales of Alhambra” by Irving Washington, for instance, is a brilliant exposition of that period. While I garnered information ,my travelling companion ,Bee, worked on the challenging logistics of reaching distant Granada from  North-east India in the most comfortable and affordable manner.

Many essentials have to be factorized before making a trip. The weather for instance would determine the clothes you pack into your 24”suitcase without it gaping at the seams when it rolls out on the arrival assembly line.  Granada was a challenge. Although, sunny Spain is warm, Granada situated at the foot of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, which are almost always snow-clad, is cold or cool in March, necessitating a light jacket, a cap and sturdy shoes. Good walking shoes are a must. Check the weather chart to determine whether you need an umbrella.

                                

pictures of Olive groves taken from the train 

                         

How did we reach Granada?

So we set off to “discover the treasure of the Moors “and absorb the Andalusian sunshine.

In Madrid, we boarded the Tourist compartment of the train operated by RENFE, Spain’s largest state-owned rail network. The cap on luggage was 20kgs each, making it comfortable for all passengers. Helpful signage took us to the right platform and the right coach.

The journey takes you through a varied landscape of altitude, slopes and plains. At times you feel the train chugging upwards and at other times it’s rattling down at a fairy’s speed. The autonomous province of Andalusia, where Granada is located, is distinctive in its character and identity, influenced historically by the Romans, Carthaginians, Byzantine, the Christian rulers and particularly by the Moors.

 The plains would be almost stark had it not been for the beautiful olive trees covering acres and acres of land. Memories of Van Gogh’s series of “The Olive Trees,” flashed through my mind. Then you see the quiet mountains looming in the distance. In fact it is the most mountainous region of Spain protecting a culture which is unique by itself. Many features which we consider to be Spanish, for example the Flamenco dance, are distinctively Andalusian .At times the music has a Middle-eastern ring.

As the train rumbled into the station, the unfamiliar engulfed us as we entered unknown land without a guide or agent depending solely on the internet and the GPS.

Court of the Lions, Alhambra 

   Where did we stay?

It took us a long time to decide where to stay. We had initially decided on one of the hotels in the Albaycin area, being a World Heritage site with a distinctive Moorish influence. The smell of hookah and incense gives it an un-Spanish ambience. But after reading reviews in various travel forums about muggings and brigands, which we later realised were absolutely untrue, decided on a hotel with a very exhilarating name “Granada Five Senses Rooms and Suites.”Truly our senses were pampered by the excellent staff, cleanliness, cuisine and location on the Central Gran via Avenue. 

The Albaycin area and Granada in general are not remotely crime-infested as Bangkok, New Delhi or London. Necessary precautions should always be taken where-ever you travel. Avoid the narrow thoroughfares especially in the afternoon (when the whole of Spain is on “Siesta”) or after dark.  Besides, the little alleys are a little confusing and there is every chance you may lose your way. Unlike Venice, the signage is sparse. The roads in Albaycin are narrow ,cobbled, often crowded with tourists: there is a gradient which sometimes makes it difficult for the elderly or little children or even taxis to manoeuvre. So if you have a large suitcase to haul with children in tow, take a hotel in the lower reaches. But it is a must-see area.....a little off-beat, bohemian and unconventional reminding us of the “hippy decade “of our youth. Cafes and restaurants are open till late in most parts of Granada. In fact we could hear laughter and merry chatter till 2am and this is very common in Spain. A kid being awake till late and entering bars is not unusual. 

Granada is inter-laced with romantic tales and fantasy. Many old citizens still believe there is immense wealth hidden in some of the abandoned forts left by the Moors. Episodes of knights in armour and beautiful princess abound.  Not knowing the language was to our disadvantage, missing out on many stories from the friendly folk.

Alleys in the Albaycin area

                           

What did we see?

The citadel and palace of Alhambra is the biggest attraction in the city. Belonging to the Nashrid period, its spectacular architecture, waterways and gardens have attracted visitors from all over the world. Book your tickets on-line and reach early to avoid the queues. Remember daily footfalls are limited and afternoons can get hot.  Generalife is the pleasure palace and immaculate garden where time can be well-spent.

We walked down from Alhambra to Plaza Neuva. You just need a good pair of walking shoes to do this route. The square is of medium size. On a sunny day the area fills with students, tourists and entertainers. There are a number of cafes and souvenir shops, often tourist –traps, but there’s no harm picking up one or two curios to add to your memorabilia. You may see antique stuff like an old copper bowl which may have been common in the days of Don Quixote!!!

There are countless museums, statutes and museums to explore. You can’t leave without visiting the Cathedral .  The “hamam”is a must-see. So are the flamenco dances at the caves in the Sacromento area. Tickets to these shows include transportation, dinner/drinks (optional) and a tour of the neighbourhood which took us to Mirador de San Nicolas from where we got a spectacular view of Alhambra at night.

The Carrero del Darro is just a street along the river Darro and it is difficult to rate a street . But having read reviews we decided to give it “dekho”which was worth the walk. Located on the left bank of the river ,it is narrow with ancient bridges , old re-notated bath-houses at the end of which there is a square abounding with activities.

A trek into the country-side or into the Sierra Nevada mountains which form the distant boundary of Granada can be included if you have time in hand

Flamenco dancer

  What did we eat?

The cuisine is as varied as Spain’s provinces, each region having its own cuisine. “Paella” the national dish, actually belongs to the area of Valencia.  Granada oranges and other citrus fruits are aplenty. Gazpacho (a soup) La Tortilla de Sacromento (stuffed omelette), Chicharron (pork dish), Pionomo (sweet  pastry similar to Swiss Roll) and a variety of tapas featuring olives, ham, and cheese satiated our hunger. Mention must be made of “El Olivio” restaurant, 30 minutes from downtown where for 39dollars + you get a treat of a set menu of 7 courses. The chef takes time off to explain each dish and guides you through different wines and olive oils. The place is of a different calibre and unique in style and decor.

Paella

                                

Granada is a fusion of the east and the west. The place exudes a kind of romance and encourages one to mingle with one and all.

Let me narrate an incident to illustrate the  friendly and helpful character of its citizens.  It so happened that I banged my head against a lamp in the hotel which left a painful lump. Next day I went to the nearest Pharmacy looking for an ointment armed with the Google translator not having faith in my scanty, accented Spanish.  I realised that the person behind the counter ,with a brimming smile,  understood me all right, but could not communicate what he wanted to say since he did not know how to use the translator. At that moment a young gentleman  who turned out to be a journalist visiting his parents in Granada but based in Hongkong, entered into the scene. He spoke fluent Spanish, English and French and had visited Mumbai and ( Oh my God!!) even knew where my home-town was, (Golaghat) thanks to the famous Kaziranga national Park. He acted as the mediator and got me the requisite medicines.  Like a true knight of yore, he walked me down to the hotel after exchanging e-mail adds.

To end......"Once you have traveled , the voyage never ends......."

The Alhambra from Mirador de San Nicholas 

                       

                    

     

                                 

                     
                 

BALI----Island of the Gods

“The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes."          (M.Proust)

There is much more to Bali than the sun, surf, and sand. It is an offering from God to Mankind. For one, there is culture everywhere. Intricately carved Temples, elaborate dances and songs, gorgeous paintings, art-craft and the omnipresent daily offerings (canang sari) in front of every establishment.  Geographical attractions abound from craters to calderas, bays to spits to headlands. For relaxation,,  meditation and yoga will sweep your mind away from the daily humdrum. Indulge yourself in the reasonably –priced spas or opt for the five-star treatment.Golfing, cycling,scuba diving for the sporty folks. Keep the beach parties and the champagne toasts for the sunset. That is a different scene ...live music , dancing , good food , sitting on bean-bags as the ocean washes your feet.....Yes , Bali is a never-ending party , a celebration  where you get value for your money.

View from Restaurant Ku de ta

 How did we reach Bali?

Budget travellers that we are, we took the no-frills Air Asia flight to Bali via Kuala Lumpur, indulging ourselves with a flexi-ticket which allowed us to book our baggage and taste their not-so-tasty food. My travelling companion,the ever-thirsty Bee, took a while to locate a smoking-room (incorrigible he!) and a beer bar at the KL airport (low cost terminal) since they are not as visible as in other airports. Besides beer-drinking is not a budget-activity in Malaysia as the excise tax is one of the highest compared to neighbouring Asian countries. So be prepared all ye guys who need a beer to begin your vacation or solve all problems!!  

Ngurah Rai International airport, named after a Balinese war hero who died fighting the Dutch, is beautifully located on the narrowest point on the south coast of Bali. With 6.5 million passengers descending annually it was necessary to extend the runway westward towards the sea, reclaiming land, making the sight from above as beautiful as a childhood dream. At Denpesar airport (Bali) the easiest option is to take a pre-paid taxi but, surprisingly, may end up paying more than to a taxi driver waiting outside waving frantically to catch your attention. But a pre-paid cab saves time and energy, after a long flight. Besides, a few extra pennies will not break your bank.

Don’t en-cash much of your foreign exchange at the airport. Downtown Bali offer attractive rates.   Count your Indonesian rupaiya in front of the trader and never, NEVER give it back for a re-count for you may end up 20k/30k IR poorer.  They are very deft with their fingers.  

Tip: Blue-bird taxis are not allowed into the airport but you will find them outside. To go around the city make use of their services. Their meters run like Swiss clocks and the chauffeurs are informative. Avoid the others.

The Kura Kura bus service is another easy and comfortable way to go around Bali. But you must have a schedule in your hand to be aware of the timings and stoppages. This is available at any tourist information center.Passes are available for 1,3,5or7 days.

Nature's gift

Where did we stay

“Money, money people no live here,” pronounced the chatty driver almost with pity, as he bought the vehicle to a halt in front of Vera home stay, Seminyak. An old, traditional Balinese home converted into a guest house with eight rooms, it is almost always occupied. Credit goes to the elegant and graceful sarong-clad Mama Ary, a one –woman army, who welcomed us with Balinese rice cakes filled with sweet coconut, wrapped in a banana leaf and shaped like an Indian “samosa”. The rooms were clean with basic essentials....Air-conditioned, hot-water, electric kettle, fridge, toiletries and a platter of fruits. If you are a TV buff you will be disappointed.  She doesn’t provide one. There was a veranda in front of every room which made the smoker happy.  It was an open house and the kitchen could be used as and when necessary. But who wants to spend time in the kitchen on a short holiday!??  A devout Balinese Hindu, filling her yard with statues of gods and goddesses, she is the epitome of hospitality.  The experience was authentic and we could get into the skin of Balinese life with Mama Ary pre-emting every need. The sea was a walking distance and the elite Ku De Ta Restaurant, with its magnificent view, was 300meters away. After spending three nights we moved on to Ubud.

Bali accommodation can be availed at a back-packers hostel for 12USD to a luxurious stay at 1000USD.

As an after-thought, our taxi driver‘s face beamed like the eastern sun as he accepted his tip, not expecting one, I suppose, from the “no money People.” 

Our room

What did we eat?

You can’t leave Bali without having a plateful of Nasi Goreng (fried rice) Indonesia’s most notable dish. Opt for the Nasi Ayam Goreng (Chicken fried rice) which is a meal by itself and is available everywhere.

The ubiquitous Warungs or food-stalls selling various satays, Mae goreng (fried noodles) bebek batuta(smoked duck) Babi guling (barbecued pork) will cater to every taste bud. Top it off with a glass of brem (rice beer) if you are adventurous. Go to Jimbaran beach for sea-food .

 For the vegetarian there are Tohu and Tempi dishes (Soya Curd/cheese). Combine it with Sayur Urab (salad) rice and sambal (spicy sauce/gravy) and come back with a belly full without much of a dent in your pocket.

Besides, the local fare there is international cuisine available at all locations. Experience fine dining at The Chezgadogado, The Samaya Seminyak and Merah Putih or at Ubud.  Kuta beach is the most happening place for discos, bars and rock and roll. Breakfast at Ku DeTa perhaps, afternoon tea at Biku’s or Metis and dinner at a beach restaurant will complete your vacation.

Fish Veloute

Roast Pork

Satay

Shopping

Haggling, much as you may dislike it, is a part of the Balinese shopping experience, as in most Asian countries. It’s ingrained in their cultural ethos. Rules of etiquette are notionally laid out. Don’t ask for the price unless you want to buy it. While browsing around,(and take your time browsing till they get bored of you,) have a blank look, almost ignore the person, but once you start bargaining stretch your face into a smile, almost seductively, and be very polite. Go around all the shops for you may find something better at the corner end.

 Being  on a vacation I had  all the time in the world and quite enjoyed the experience.  Its basic economics, no art , and the one who has the better skill wins. A colourful Hawaii shirt for 500k IDR can be got for 100k IDR. Such is the power of bargaining. It is absent in Malls and branded shops but is evident even in upscale silver jewellery and craft out-lets. Bali’s wood-work is amazing and you may want to send a ship-load home. The island has been show-cased in its paintings . Buy one to add to the collection back home. Its worth it.

Very organized Flea market,Seminyak

What to see

Without going into details (information available on the net) let me give my own take on the island.(Seminyak) Experience a Balinese dance performance (Barung/Kecak/ Sanghyang) but make sure you read the synopsis of the event or else it won’t make sense.  

Snorkelling, surfing and jet-skiing for the fit , delve into their history by visiting temples, one museum at least  and monuments. Peep into a school. Go to the farmers’ market on the outskirts and have lunch in one of the Warungs (food stall) for 2 USD. Language may be a little bit of a problem there, as we experienced while ordering grilled prawns (Udang Gulah) in a restaurant near the daily market . We were literally taken to the kitchen space to make our point. But that’s the joy of being a traveller when you are accepted by the locals, even if it’s for a short while.  Hire a mo-bike and venture into the unknown. Soak yourself in the sea. What I loved most were the craters and calderas ...but more of that another time.

Dance recital

Incidentally out of 17000 islands in Indonesia, with 922 being permanently inhabited, Bali is the only island with 90% Balinese Hindu population.Their rituals are a little different from that of India.

 With more than 4 million tourists flying into the island of 5416sq kms, the Balinese have honed their skills in entertaining visitors.They are lovely people.

 The south-east corner (Kuta-Legian-Seminyak-Petitenget) has droves of selfie-stick carrying tourists which is sometimes tiring There are moments when you want to share space with less people. That can be had in Northern and Eastern Bali ...... pristine white beaches and rural splendour combined with modern amenities.  Far from the maddening crowd,as it were.....Head for one of the beaches  for a day or two before you return home. It will give you enough to brag about back home.

Let me end with a quotation, “The day, like all good days, passed off too quick.”

Yes, I wanna go back to the sun, sand and surf!!

evening at the beach 

286kms drive to Shillong,Meghalaya (north-East India)

                             
                     
"If you have men who will only come if they know there is a good road,I don't want them. I want men who will come if there is no road at all. "(David Livingstone)

                 

The  shortest distance from Guwahati(Assam) to Shillong is approx.120km .

The unknown and unseen  often  beckons, leading us to take the “less trodden” route to Shillong  via Rani, Patharkhama , Nongstoin.... onwards. Interesting that it was , it was an eye-opener that to see the ever-changing world you don’t have to go very far....it’s just around your kitchen ...“the great, wide , beautiful , wonderful world.”(W.B.Rands)

Driving 286kms through lonely ,motorable roads where a knowledge of the local language (khasi)is helpful while ordering your cuppa of the energizing red tea , we realised the immense natural bounties of flora and fauna that this region had to offer.   Dotted with hamlets in the undulating terrain , with a roadside tea (cha) shop here and there, the potato fields, groves of pine trees , rice-fields , waterfalls and the lake all encompassing, highlights the authenticity about travel , life and adventure. Sometimes you do want to leave behind the dis-spirited , mundane existence of everyday life and  unashamedly lust for the existence of a gypsy, to do what pleases you ,with not a care in the world.

This took us through remote parts of the state of Meghalaya(India) spending a night at Nongstoin in the government guest house ,  before rambling on to Barapani and finally Shillong. 

The word “Maw” means Stone and "Um" is water in Khasi  ,words you will be coming across often in this write-up. Names of many towns and villages begin with these words.

En-route

                                      

The road –mapping was done by Bee, my travelling companion, with the necessary stops and pauses to interact with the local populace. From Guwahati we proceeded to Rani via Deepor Beel and onwards to Pathorkhama. Our first stop was at Umrit Bazaar where we bought red berries and pine-apples, making use of the limited Khasi words I profess to know and speak badly.

 Onwards to Nongkhlow , made famous by the freedom fighter  U tirot Singh who came into conflict with the British when David Scott was the administrator. The Martyr's statue stands tall at Mairang recognising his bravery and sacrfice during the Anglo-Khasi War.

“Killing rock” was our next stop. Difficult to ascend if you’re not in good shape and even if you do, there is lurking danger that the wind may topple you down.We used four-paws at times to reach half-way and patted our backs for it.At fifty-nine years it was a Herculean task.

Lunch of piping hot “momos”(dumplings ) and soup was at Marbaniang  cafe , Mairang  . The limited staff maintained the norms of gentility and cleanliness making us feel at home and we stuffed ourselves to our necks before we ventured on . Henceforth , the road was superb till we reached Nongstoin where we spent the night .

    

Killing Rock

With the sunrise we wove our way to see the undisturbed  pastoral island of Nongkhnum ,the second  largest river-island in the world after Majuli . A must-see is the Weinia Waterfalls on the river Kynshi near the island. With not a soul around , the sound of running water was oddly amplified and the plants/animals became our friends.

river island of Nongkhnum

                               

Weinia Waterfalls

                                 

The captivating sight of light on river, the soft hills and green foliage , the silvery spray of the waterfall left us immersed in nature’s splendour . We drove on to the tri-junction Mawmaram (i hope I’ve got the name right) and turned left for Mawlyngdep.

A well-organized , clean village where everything seemed to be in perfect order like a disciplined school under a strict Headmaster , Mawlyndep gave way to beautiful rolling hills and meadows which perhaps enabled Shillong to earn the epithet “Scotland of the East.”

                             

                            

From Umbir it was onwards to Umiam (Barapani) . Shillong stood 16 kms away at an altitude of 4,908 feet  the highest point being the Shillong Peak at 6499feet.

TIPS: Cell-phone connectivity is poor.
          Take enough water bottles.
           Start your journey early.  

Let me end with words about Shillong which I had learnt as a child.

“Where waters are falling /the hill-sides are calling.... Shillong/ Where cool air is crisper/ the breezes all whisper ....shillong/ For this is a city that’s set on a hill / and its light will shine wider still...........”     

                                  

20 hours in Irun,Spain

                             

                   

 “We'll spend a night in Irun on our way to Madrid ,” Bee,  my travelling companion announced with a  dictatorial finality.

“Irun???”

“Its in the Basque region of Spain.” The words jolted my memory like a tsunami wave  bringing forth facts and figures  which I had taught as a  teacher. 

Straddling both France and Spain and partly in the Pyrenees ,with the Bay of Biscay to the north,  it is inhabited by the Basque people ,speaking a language( Euskara) distinct from other European languages and having no linguistic relative. A very old race ,they have survived invasions , foreign domination and dictators. While most ethnic  groups and sects in the Iberian Peninsula blended into the main stream with the march of time , the insular Basque community survived .

How did we reach Irun

How did we reach Irun

map showing parts of France and Spain, bay of Biscay

                               

                     

At 7.30 in the morning we  boarded the train at Bordeaux heading for Hendeyne.Tickets are between  27 to  30 euros. Both stations are clean , signage is clear and there are English –speaking staff at the information desk .The train was spacious , enough room for luggage and filled with retirees and holiday makers most of whom were heading for San Sebastian. Like most French trains there is a catering facility, so the need to take  packed snacks does not arise.  The journey takes approximately 3 hours As we munched on our sandwiches and coffee we took in the landscape  while traversing small towns , beautiful countryside  and picture -perfect  vineyards .

We reached Hendeyne at about 10.30. It is the farthest point of South –west France , a frontier town before entering Spain . Despite the fact that the route is traversed by thousands of people,  since it is the link between  Iberian Peninsular and the rest of Europe, the station is small, just about 4 platforms, so you’ll never get lost .

You can walk across to Irun (Spain) from Hendeyne (France) across the Santiago Bridge over the River Bidasoa. We, however, took a little train, after crossing the frontier gate, running for just 6 mins.to reach Irun station. Thus we entered the land of the Spanish Armada, flamenco dancers and  the painter Francisco Goya nodding a “Hola” to one and sundry.    

Tip: Train tickets fluctuate. Book your tickets well ahead to get fair discounts.
 For short journeys take the regional trains (REC) than the TGV high speed. Although wash-room amenities are available in all stations sometimes you may have to make small payment.Therefore keep some ready change ready.

Where did we stay

Bar Pension Restaurante Bidasoa

                                             

  We had an  early morning train to Madrid. Therefore, we decided on an accommodation just near the railway station and what better place than “Bar Pension Restaurante Bidasoa” at 60euros per night . That was our Paradise for the night. 

I have never stayed in a place like this.The name of the hotel was self-explanatory; it is a bar frequented by the elderly pensioners at all times of the day . Even at 10.30 it was pretty crowded. You can access the rooms of the Pension(small hotel)through the bar and the restaurant lay beyond the watering-hole.

 Our tussle with the unknown began when we realized that nobody could speak English though they understood us (I think). A furtive look leapt into my eyes and my face contorted , witch-like,  as it often does, when I am about to speak   a foreign language .

“ Senorita, Hemos reservado una habitacion aqui”(we have a reservation here) ,I said.  Something went terribly wrong for the beautiful lady  looked at us blankly and smiled. The accent  must have been a pain to the  ear like incoming artillery.  Bee  solved our problem by wielding the Google translator successfully.  Smiling all the while she rattled off a string of incomprehensible sentences and called for the young Sou Chef, who knew communicative English,  to settle the necessary modalities. “Una estancia confortable” she said . “Gracias.” Yes, we both understood.

The room was small but very clean . The teeny-weeny bath-room had us “walking – in” backwards. The invisible noise which was as soft as muslin coming from the other room made us realise that the walls were thin. “Remember , you get what you pay for,” I was told. Nevertheless we had a comfortable night  , fresh for the next leg of our journey.

Tip: a) It’s good to know a few sentences of the local language. 
       b)“Seista” is important for every Spaniard . Shops are shut and restaurants are closed.              Therefore have your meals well ahead of time.
       c)sncf.com/en and renfe.com/en are the two websites to check for train time-tables in               France and Spain. 

                        

near our hotel

                            

                                       

What did we see and eat

Twenty hours is not enough to see everything that Irun has to offer, with eight hours spent sleeping. We walked around taking photographs of a few landmarks, visiting the shops,absorbing the sights,sounds and flavours of the region.The spots we covered were the Town Hall and square , the church , the Palacio Arbelaiz . We didn't have time to go inside the Museo Romano Oiasso.

Proximity to the sea has made fish an important item in their menu apart from local vegetables and meat .Tucking into the Marmitako (fish stew) and Pintxos(finger food) along with a glass of Sangria ,our evening was made.

 Marmitako (fish stew)

Sangria

                                                            

We inter-acted with the elderly gentleman at the bookstore who made an interesting statement ,“The Romans have come and gone but we are still here.” The region has seen turbulent days during the revolutionary movement led by the ETA (Euskadi Ta Azkatasuna meaning Basque country and Freedom) in the 1970’s saw 100 people dying every year.Violence had become an outdoor activity of the people leading many Basque people to re-settle elsewhere.

Things have changed after the cease-fire in 2010 . Today the Spanish Basque Autonomous Country is more autonomous than many other parts of the continent, having the highest per capita income in Spain leading to immigration from poorer parts of Spain and the world. Though there are 30% fluent Basque speakers and 18% passive speakers, efforts are being made to revive the language.  A beautiful country with beautiful people!

The Evening saw groups of retirees entering the bar of the hotel which had three screens telecasting football . Real Madrid was the popular club being cheered ,although I was told there is a team “Atheletic  Bilbao” where all players are Basque.The bonhomie at the bar was all pervading with much laughter ,back-slapping and jokes in a language that was beyond our reach. Beer did the rounds . We joined the cordiality and heartiness of the folks before we called it a day.

Tip:  a) Have time in hand to make a trip to San Sebastian , the nearby sea-resort.

‘       b)Be a Roman in Rome”and do what the locals do.

        c)Don’t be nostalgic about home-made food . Be adventurous , dig and eat !!

My travelling partner, Bee

                                

Let me end with the words of Nelson Mandela:“After climbing a great hill , one only finds that there are many more hills to climb.”

Nature at its best (photos).....Vancouver BC

Last year we spent 5 weeks in Vancouver BC just before winter set in . One of the most  serenely beautiful places on this planet. This blog is  about the Hues of nature ........

The loveliness of it all

English bay

Sea-shells.....beautiful but forgotten

A peaceful world of their own

Our hearts be so clear

Enjoying the sun

Beauty in their simplicity

English Bay .....BC

Tranquil

Stillness of Nature

Imposing Remnant

Relax

Sky is the limit

Interesting trail

where waters are falling and valleys calling

autumn is here

hues of autumn

KHONOMA, Nagaland ---Nature Undisturbed

                       "One's destination is never a place , but a new way of seeing things."

You don’t need an alarm clock in Khonoma . At the crack of dawn , the crowing of the village roosters wakes you up to a clear, azure sky and a 360 degree view of the verdant hills. Before the sun has consolidated its position in the sky,the folks are on their way to work on the beautiful terraced rice fields and the children are off to school in their smart attire.  It was an amazing weekend !!

How did we reach Khonoma?

We clocked approx. 334kms to Kohima, capital city of Nagaland, north-east India, and another 20kms to Khonoma village.  NH 37 bifurcates to Asian Highway  1(AH1) near Nowgaon taking us via Doboka and Dimapur to Kohima. The roads are fairly good save for patches in Assam and the sinking area(land-slide prone) in Nagaland. However,it is possible to fly into Dimapur or reach the town by train , but the next 69 kms to Kohima has to be covered by road. The drive was a visual feast.The rains made all the difference to the green foliage.


                       " Some beautiful paths can't be discovered without getting lost.."

After  having spent a night in Kohima , we drove onwards to the “Green Village” of Khonoma.

 It is barely 20 kms from Kohima but we took an hour. The best route is to come through the Jotsama –Peren road but  my travelling partner, Bee, likes to take the unbeaten track  and chose the more challenging route where our GPS got confused leading us to ask strangers for directions at every bend. The road is narrow, uphill, partly gravel  and  there is no signage till the highway.   Nevertheless, it was an interesting ride , almost like a treasure hunt trying to locate the “shy"village: “shy”  cause you don’t get a glimpse of the hamlet nestled amoungst the hills, perched at 3048 meters above sea level ,  till the last 3 kms when  a U-turn is made. 

Khonoma Village.....  two kms ahead

                                      "We were in for the right things at the right Inn"

Where did we stay?

Michael , our guide, affable and knowledgeable, a proud Naga of the Angami tribe,  met us at the Baptist Church. Incidentally , there are three churches –A Baptist church, Roman Catholic and a Revival (not sure?)----in a village of 5000 which reflected the religious values of the inhabitants. The earthiness of the village was evident in its simplicity. 

We drove into Dovie Pie Inn, an abode of a unique stay, where the staff is friendly , room is  clean with an adjoining terrace where we could sit to take in the geographical terrain and mysticism of Nagaland. The Inn offers rooms from $30 to $50. Nice name, Dovie Pie ; it was named after the owner's ancestor .

Dovie Pie Inn

The terrace....360 degree view of the hills

What did we do ?

Without  wasting much time after check-in  we set out with a steely resolve to capture everything in one day. Armed with sturdy  walking shoes and our igloo-shaped umbrellas  we followed Michael (cell no: +91 98628 63176 )  on the historic village trail. A great story teller , he walked the talk....the history of the village , covering the wars with the Btitish in 1879-80 , pointing out the memorial of the British officers who laid down their lives attempting to capture the village. 

Memorial

 The age-old  village was  impregnable at that time,  with fortified walls and four gates atop a hill making it impossible to be occupied. During the World War II (Battle of Kohima) the villagers played a note-worthy role in shipping artillery through the hills and ravines to the British army in kohima.

 In the 1950’s during the time of the Naga insurgency , the village was raised to the ground by the Indian army ,forcing the population to abandon their homes . Mr A.Z. Phizo who spear-headed the movement for an Independent Nagaland as leader of Naga National Council(NNC) belonged to this village. There is a memorial at the far end in honour of the martyrs. The area has seen good and bad days. Today, it stands tall as one of the greenest and cleanest villages in India. It is peaceful and serene . The proud sons of the soil have done well . Many have moved out into the world.

Fort

“We don’t cut trees or kill animals,” said Michael . Once upon a time he was a sharp-shooter , bringing in trophies by a dozen . That’s history for him . ...he lives by the River Khuru ,rich in Rainbow Trout,  grows flowers and vegetables  and writes books about his people. Hunting having been the main occupation historically , it was difficult to convince the older generation of the essence of conservation . Trophies are still to be seen in many homes as a reminder of the past.

Trophies...reminder of the past

  Khonoma Nature and Conservation Trust and Tragopan Sanctuary has made singular contribution to conservation. The sacred grove of trees is revered . Although shifting cultivation continues , it is done in a very scientific manner. The alder trees are hardy and resistant to fire.The Tragopan bird is a diminishing breed but you are very, very lucky you may spot one.
An abode of a unique flora and fauna ,( alder trees, bisons and tragopan Bird) the model village of Khonoma has a regular water supply and electricity at every home. The cobbled paths and steps have been built by the local work-force with materials from the village quarry , each group of boys accountable for their section. There are 3 high schools and 3 primary schools. Surprisingly, I spied three cell-phone towers which speaks a lot about the penetration of the phone companies.

Cobbled path....neat and clean 

You cannot leave Khonoma without visiting a “Morong” or dormitory for bachelor boys. Made of

bamboo, these traditional, beautiful  huts is the home where the young boys learn life-skills, folk-lore, ancestral songs and facts of life.There are songs for every occasion .
 A few lines of a lullaby particularly appealed to me :

 “Cry not my little one, Fear not for I am here, Will hold you, come what may in my arms.”
 
The Morong is an essential part of every boy's life and a symbol of pride of each village . It houses the trophies and weapons of the young men. Although the convention of staying in a Morung is fading with the invasion of modern practices , Khonoma is still known for its active dormitories.   Popular sports are wrestling , foot-ball and volley ball.

A model Morung...a show -piece

                                                        Shield on display inside the Morung


                                "I love going out of my way, beyond what I know.........."

For trekkers and nature –lovers the village is an ideal destination.All arrangements are made by the tour-guide.

 The World War II trail is particularly popular and takes about 8 hours. The novelty of walking down to the paddy fields is an experience which every city-dweller would enjoy. Forty varieties of rice are grown. The USP of the Dzouku Valley Trail is the all-pervading stillness ,hush and the symbiosis of the individual with Nature. Unlike other trails , you do not hear the sound of a car-engine even in the remote distance.

Terraced rice-fields

                                   "The next best thing about eating food is talking about it...."

   What did we eat?

Smoked , dried ,fermented and boiled are the cooking methods used . Rice is the staple carbohydrate. The King Chilli ,bamboo shoots  and “axuni”(fermented soya-beans)are essential ingredients.

 Boiled vegetables and boiled organic edible leaves like yam , mustard , pumpkin are served. Pork with bamboo-shoot is a hot favourite.  

We gorged on the food after a full-day....we dug in and ate like pigs!!! A glass of rice beer completed our day. No neurotic fear of fighting the fat !!!!

Sticky rice, pork bamboo shoot, dried fish chutney, lentils with herbs, boiled veggies

The gold coin faded with the day's end. Tucked away in a remote corner of India , Khonoma lives on its own time zone far removed from the rest of the world despite its connectivity. The moment you step into the cobbled walk-ways the small pristine village begins to tell its ancient story.

 

Evening

As we sat on the terrace listening to Michael’s tales of yore, the fog engulfed us, darkness set in . The gurgling of the river water  was amplified in the twilight . The fading sound of  crickets stirred me

into creativity. I wrote and wrote till I fell into deep slumber and woke when the cocks crowed !

Let me end with a quote from Louis L'Amour "I think of myself as a troubadour, a village story-teller the guys in the shadows of a camp-fire..."

In traditional attire