Saturday 18 January 2020

Travelogue: North-East India: Madan Kamdev Temple

Erotic sculptures

"Sculpture is the art of the intelligence." Pablo Picasso


The Madan Kamdev temple is situated on the Gopeshwar hills covering an area of 500 square meters. The river Nadankuri flows below. Located ,approximately 40 miles from Guwahati it is one of the few Kamdev temples of India. Although not much remains today except for a few ruins, the exquisite carvings are proof of erotic sculptures existing in templez other than in Khajuraho. The embracing posture of Uma and Maheswar , the six-headed Shiva , Ganesh and the kalpagriha chiselled out on sand stone reflects the patronage received from the royalty. 





There were 13 temples apart from the main sanctum, built by the Pala kings of Assam during the 9th and 10th Cent. The first reference was made by Captain Dalton in 1855 but no further datails are known. Mr.Tarinikanta Sarma , Inspector of Schools was the next to focus on the ruins. No research was done for 25 years till 1977 when Dr. P Sharma of the Archeological Survey of India took the initiative. Assisted by locals and funded by the Government, remnants of the statues were organized in one place , though much of it was looted and pilfered.  




 Don't hesitate to strike up a conversation with the flower sellers who can brief you on the layout of the temple , the history and the demography of the area.We were met by a volunteer, Mr. Mazinder Baruah, ripe in his years, but proud of his heritage, he comes everyday to assist the tourist flow. He opined that the sculptors were definitely not local artists. They were brought in by the Pala kings to weave the beauty of it all. Every figure, though much defaced, oozes of the glorious past and splendour. It is believed that Lord Shiva in his fury burnt Kamdev with his third eye at that very place. Out of the ashes rose Madan .Hence the temple.





The local villagers belong to the Hira community who used to make clay pots, pans and plates. It is said that when the ruins were excavated there were places which had mounds of broken clay utensils and brings.
The trip was worth it. The tourism department has set up a guesthouse which is not much used. The area is well maintained. 



Entry to the temple
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