How did we reach Khajuraho?
“Life is like a journey on a train”
We flew into Delhi from
Guwahati, Assam and then caught the UP Sampark Kranti Express 12448/slip which
becomes 22448 minus the slip. The “slip” factor is interesting and needs a
little explanation. The Sampark Kranti ‘s scheduled trail is from Nizzamuddin (Delhi)
to a place called Manikpur in Madhya Pradesh , but as the train reaches Mahoba a few coaches are “slipped” off and attached
to another engine which weaves its way to Khajuraho. We slept on without being
disturbed only to wake up at Khajuraho at 7am.
Unlike other day train journeys
in India which are veritable Grand Bazaars with hawkers selling everything and
anything from mobiles to toys to “jhal –muri” and soothing Chinese balms, the
S. Kranti being an over-night train was bereft of all the essentials that make
a train journey in India so interesting. I also missed the nosey co-passengers
who want to bet our complete bio-data to scrutinize and analyse. Instead we had
for company groups of Vietnamese, Europeans and a couple of Indians, each
carrying their own aromas in their packed dinner. We had to endure the tower of
Babel till the lights went off for a sound sleep.
For those who have a penchant
for air-travel, there is no direct flight from Delhi to Khajuraho, each flight
entailing one stop in either Bhopal, Raipur etc.
"You have to create your life.You have to carve it like a sculpture"
Western Group
I fell in love with the masons and sculptors who
created the commendably magnificent
structures which today is Khajuraho.....sculptors long dead and gone buried
unknown and unsung .Only undiluted
passion , unflinching commitment and deft fingers could have created
such perfect bodies displaying life in
its minutest detail.
Much
has been written about the acrobatically erotic and amorously lusty figurines,
(which is just 12% of the sculptures), for which hordes of global and local
tourists visit. They are beautiful and unsinful to view and appreciate, despite
our hypocritical attitude towards sex today .Our guide Mahendra Singh, aged and
knowledgeable, gave a philosophical interpretation to all the carvings,
invoking tantricism and yoga which made every statue almost sacrosanct and
blessed. Every act is a part of a much wider set of yogic practices which aim
to make the human body flexible and healthy using postures, breathing and
meditation to reach the ultimate.
Every detail of Life is depicted
Subtle humour can be discerned in some of the carvings.
One which we noted was of an elephant smirking at a couple making love. Human
emotions in every form are reflected by the artisans in their work.
A UNESCO World heritage site, it
originally had 85 temples but today only 25 remain. Built in honour of Lord
Shiva, Vishnu and the Jain patriarchs they have withstood the ravages of nature and
Man.
Khajuraho ‘s chiselled work is as good as ,if not better, than the Cathedral at Chartres (France) and Alhambra , Granada(Spain). Many may
disagree with me on the ground that the culture and period differ, but it goes without saying that the dedication and commitment
of the workers in all three iconic places remain the same.
There is not a single inch in each temple that
has not been artistically carved.
 |
| The temple at 6.30am |
\The best time to visit the temples is early
morning (the gates open at 6.30am) or in the evening. As the sun rises the rays
pour straight through the gate/ door striking the massive “lingam” located in sanctum
of the Khandariya Mahadeva temple which is the largest /tallest in the campus.
But as far as awesome sculptures are concerned the Lakshmana temples bags the
prize. All the carvings are on the outer walls. The inside is serene and
sublime!
Mid-day.......a wee bit hot
There is a cafe within the
campus for the much needed cuppa after the awe-inspiring, adrenaline –gushing
tour. Take a break and relax under the trees!!! Don’t forget to carry a
water-bottle especially if it is sunny.
We spent a full day in the area taking liberty to give our own interpretations which sometimes were a little naughty, annoying our respectable guide. Preparations for battles, the ladies in their boudoir, animals being herded to the fields ....every aspect of life was represented with finesse and perfection. The precision, the mathematical calculations and effort put in goes without saying. The temples reflect the grandeur and resplendence of the Chandela kings without whose patronage Khajuraho would have remained a flat land.
"SCULPTURE IS THE ART OF THE INTELLIGENCE"..........Pablo Picasso
The temple grounds are immaculately maintained by the ASI with manicured lawns and flowers blooming. If nature’s call is too strong toilets can be located, tucked away in one corner.
Don’t miss the Sound and Light Show where the Spirit of the sculptors is represented by Indian actor, Amitabh Bachcan’s voice.
The Eastern and Southern temples also deserves
a “dekko” but they are not as alluring as the eastern group.
Where did we stay?
I once read “I always wish the
hotels were like they were in movies and TV shows, where if you are in Paris the
Eiffel tower was right outside the window. In any part of Egypt, the Pyramids
are right there.”
With these words in mind we
selected Isabella Palace, which has been named after the owner's beautiful
and charming daughter........but it was far from being a Palace. A family –run budget hotel with 25 rooms ,
each room spick-and span , “sterilized and sanitized” as it were, with friendly
staff who would walk the extra mile for you. You can while away your extra time
in their small garden or take an ayurvedic massage from a burly, muscular guy
who treats your body like a mould of clay. Breakfast is included in the
package. The roof-top terrace is well lit with fairy lights after dusk creating
an ambience that calls for a glass of “bubbly.” You get value for your money.
Picture of the hotel's garden from the balcony of our room
Well-maintained bed-room
Khajuraho Town
“Walk the town to get its flavour.”
A touristy town with a
population of about 35, 000 in the area that matters, it is planned and
relatively clean. Everyone, big or small, knows a smattering of a foreign
language thanks to the annual visitors. Dotted with little shops, cafes and hotels,
you can go around in a bicycle, tuk-tuk, cars or walk. Prices for tourist
guides and conveyance are fixed by the Tourism department, so chances of
getting cheated are minimal. If you want to pick up knick-knacks, curios don’t
go to the fancy outlets; the pedestrian shops offer things at half the price
after a little haggling. For Maheshwari and Chanderi saris head to the state
emporiums.
Let me end with Osho -speak.....”You have to pass through the door and
go beyond. And the beyond is nothing but utter emptiness.”That is what
Khajuraho symbolizes.
